I just purchased a set of Bridgestone Dueler A/T Revo's for my 2004 4Runner
to replace the OEM Bridgestone Dueler H/T's. The recommended tire pressure
on the nameplate on the door of the vehicle is 32 psi. The max. cold
inflation pressure of the OEM tires was 35 psi, however, for the Revo's it
is 44 psi. I had read a Consumer Reports article which advised to stick with
the car manufacturer's recommendations for tire pressure, regardless of the
tire. I am not sure what the optimum pressure should be and I don't want to
damage my vehicle's suspension or effect its load rating. Any advice would
be appreciated.

Thanks,
Steve

I understand your question, but I don't understand why you would disregard
the oem recommended pressure.

If there is stated spec of torque on a bolt, would you use the max torque
rated on the wrench, or the oem torque spec?



"Steve Carr" <carrst@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:T2Oqh.2431$32.96@trndny09...

"Steve Carr" <carrst@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:T2Oqh.2431$32.96@trndny09...
Do a little research on the Firestone/Explorer debacle.

Personally, I look at it this way... the folks that designed the vehicle
doesn't have a clue what tires are going to be on it, or their recommended
pressures which could range from 30 to 80PSI.
I *ALWAYS* run the pressure that is on the side of the tire....max load at
XX psi. In the case of the Dueler APTs that are on my Tundra, they say
44psi...so thats where I run them. It makes for better handling, better fuel
economy, and more even tire wear.

Its your money, you can *DO* whatever you want.

"Steve Carr" <carrst@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:T2Oqh.2431$32.96@trndny09...

Within reason, higher pressures won't damage your suspension. Begin by using
Toyota's recommendation. Change the pressure if:

1) You have handling problems with the tires (hydroplaning, bad traction in
snow). Raise pressure 2 lbs and judge the results. Don't go beyond 38-ish.
If these issues continue, you have the wrong tires.

2) Uneven tire wear. Ask your mechanic if this happens. It's NOT always due
to alignment problems.

"JoeSpareBedroom" <dishborealis@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:J8Rqh.651$ya1.305@news02.roc.ny...
Tire pressure will not damage the suspension, hill jumping in San Francisco
will, crashing through the bushes with excessive speed isn't a real good
thing either.
Like I said before, the auto manufacturers don't have a clue what brand,
size, or type of tire is going to be on the vehicle. The tire manufacturers
design the tires for a specific purpose, with specific pressures, and load
ratings.

Don't go beyond "38ish" even if the tires are rated at 80psi?? Wrong tires??
on a truck?? Take a close look at LT type tires... 80psi, as opposed to the
passenger car tires at 32 - 44psi that most light trucks come off the
showroom floor with?? WTF??? Off road tires and monster mudders run
different pressures too, and so do racing tires.

Maybe your blanket tire pressure statement needs to be ammended??

Uneven tire wear could be caused by a dozen different problems.... shocks,
tie rods, steering, ball joints, CV joints, bushings, bearings, oh and
running the wrong tire pressures...or any combination of the above.

"Noon-Air" <Noon-Air@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:9I-dnS9PBdmEuDHYnZ2dnUVZ_qarnZ2d@comcast.com...


You are absolutely right. But, based on the messages in this, and similar
newsgroups, people who ask questions here don't have a real mechanic. They
have a service writer (aka "fiction writer"), or a criminal. So, in your
list of things that could affect tire wear, it's a matter of luck if people
here get the right thing fixed.

I have actualy inflated the tires to the OEM recommended pressure and have
been using them that way, just to be safe until I determine the optimum
pressure, but have been reading conflicting articles, some of which say to
stick with the OEM recommendations and others which say to inflate to a
higher pressure, and some which say to inflae to the max. pressure. I am
just trying to get clarification.

My concerns are:
1) I want to be sure I am not under-inflating my new tires, thereby causing
premature wear, and
2) The max. load on both the OEM and new tires is 2337 lbs. at the max.
rated pressure. Since the OEM tires had a max. rated pressure of 35 psi, the
recommended pressure of 32 psi was 91% of max. rated. The new tires have a
max. rated pressure of 44 psi so by adhering to the recomended tire presure
of 32 psi I am only at 73% of the max. That being the case, how will the
'actual' load capacity of the new tires be effected and will they be safe at
32 psi ?
Thanks,
Steve

"Luba Papageorgio" <none@none.com> wrote in message
news:n1Rqh.26888$QU1.21071@newssvr22.news.prodigy. net...

I once got information directly from Michelin, and it differed by 2-3 pounds
from what Toyota recommended. Call the tire manufacturer directly. Nobody
here can give you the information you need. We can only talk in
generalities.


"Steve Carr" <carrst@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:y_Zqh.898$R76.209@trnddc05...

"Steve Carr" <carrst@verizon.net> didst type:

Maximum pressure ratings are for maximum load. My Tundra is roughly 5,000
lbs. unloaded with a payload capacity of 1,635 lbs. (4x4) so maximum load is
around 6,635 lbs. Divide by four (yeah, yeah, not all wheels carry an
equivalent load but this is an approximation, eh?) and you get something
just shy of 1,7000 lbs.

The Revo max specs for the 265/70SR17's I run are 2,535 lbs. @ 44 psi. so
even at the Tundra's maximum load capacity, the Revo's are only loaded at
75% of their maximum rating. I run 32/34 psi front/rear for comfy ride and
may pressure up to 40/42 psi on long highway trips for a tad better mileage.

When running loaded with gear and pulling the trailer, I'll pressure up some
too for road travel. Once the pavement ends, I'll air down to the high 20s
so I don't poke a sidewall in the rocks when getting back to the campsite.
Once back to the road, its back up to 32/34/38/42/whatever. I carry a 3.5
gallon tank @ 130 psi that will give me about +12 psi per tire to air back
up.

Run your Revos at the OEM pressure guidelines found on the driver's side
sticker with confidence and vary to taste/load with confidence.

Blah
--

"Steve Carr" <carrst@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:T2Oqh.2431$32.96@trndny09...
| I just purchased a set of Bridgestone Dueler A/T Revo's for my 2004
4Runner
| to replace the OEM Bridgestone Dueler H/T's. The recommended tire
pressure
| on the nameplate on the door of the vehicle is 32 psi. The max. cold
| inflation pressure of the OEM tires was 35 psi, however, for the
Revo's it
| is 44 psi. I had read a Consumer Reports article which advised to
stick with
| the car manufacturer's recommendations for tire pressure, regardless
of the
| tire. I am not sure what the optimum pressure should be and I don't
want to
| damage my vehicle's suspension or effect its load rating. Any advice
would
| be appreciated.
|
| Thanks,
| Steve
|
|

I read some time ago that the correct pressure is the one that gives
proper contact with the pavement. I.E., too much pressure and the tire
will wear out center of the tread. (Exactly what the tires were doing
on the '99 Taco I bought last year) Too little and the tire will wear
out the outside of the tread first. If you have to run a very low
pressure to achieve the proper footprint then you need another tire
sized for the weight/size of your truck.

One of the ways mentioned to determine if you have the right pressure,
is to run your truck slowly through a wet spot in a straight line. Then
see what the footprint looks like on the other side. Putting chalk marks
across the tread is another method that has been suggested. The marks
should wear off evenly when driven in a straight line.

Here is a link with pictures showing tread wear due to improper
inflation:
http://www.motortrend.com/features/c...tire_inflation

BTW, the nameplate on my '99 Taco says 29psi for the rear and 26psi for
the front. But, it also says for 225X15 tires. The truck was sold with
10.50X15 Bridgestone Duellers on it. I am running 30psi front and 28psi
rear (no load) to obtain the proper footprint.

--
Jarhead



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On Mon, 15 Jan 2007 16:34:59 GMT, "Steve Carr" <carrst@verizon.net>
wrote:

Ignore Noon-Air, he's being an ass. If you want to be truly
accurate, you want to inflate the tires to the TIRE MAKER's
recommended pressure for a certain load, which usually agree with the
car maker's recommended pressure - but not always, see Ford Explorer
debacle.

(Ford deliberately told owners to underinflate their tires to get a
better ride quality, with the usual disastrous results when the tires
overheated and came apart - and people got killed. IMHO, a few Ford
executives and senior engineers should be serving prison sentences
over that mess.)

And blindly running the Maximum Pressure on the sidewall will get
you into big trouble if one end of the vehicle is lightly loaded -
which is the rear tires on most front-drive small sedans, and the
rarer Beetles, Porsches, Corvairs with a heavy rear bias...

A: Find out what the pressures are supposed to be
B: Find out how much load is on the tires
C: Adjust the pressures, then watch the tire wear

First, go to your tire dealer, and have them look up the tires you
have in the catalog. There will be a Load/Pressure chart in the book
for that /exact/ size, model and load-range tire.

There's also a Rubber Manufacturers Association 'generic' chart
that the tire shop should have - but I've never been able to find this
info online. Copy the information down, or make a photocopy of the
page.

Second, go to a truck scale with the vehicle loaded as you normally
drive it. Get at a minimum the axle weights at each end - you don't
need individual wheel weights unless you suspect big side-to-side
imbalances.

(Motorhomes get this a lot, when all the fuel & water tanks and
cabinets are on one side, and the beds and dinette are on the other.
Try moving the Cast Iron cookware to a cabinet on the light side.)

If you don't need a "Certified Weigh Slip" most scales will let you
get the axle weights for free - or go to the Recycling Center with a
load of cans and bottles, and on the way out you go over the scales
slowly enough to get the axle weights going on (front) and off (rear)
the scale.

Then it's a simple matter of seeing what the L/P chart says for that
weight. When in doubt, go up a pound or two. Tire Pressures never
leak up over time, they always leak down...

The inflation will tell over time if you have it right - if the
center of the tread wears first, it's too high. Shoulders, too low.

--<< Bruce >>--

The MAX PRESSURE that is stamped on the tire is the max capacity of the tire
in the most demanding set of operating conditions. The recommended pressure
that Toyota prints on the door jamb sticker is the pressure that will give
the best wear and most comfort. The two numbers have no bearing on one
another.




"Steve Carr" <carrst@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:T2Oqh.2431$32.96@trndny09...

The proper tire pressure is the maximum pressure you can run the tire
at and still have complete road contact across the width of the tire
where it contacts the road when the tire is WARM. This is the
condition the tire operates at when you are driving the vehicle.
Maximum contact with the road = maximum traction and braking contact.
The pressure will vary depending on the load in your vehicle if it is a
truck, and the size of the tire on the vehicle. Large floation tires
like 32" or 33" tires will take less pressure and provide a softer
ride. Lt tires have a thicker sidewall and will provide a somewhat
stiffer ride.
I run LT265 Revos on our Sequoia and run them at 42 psi where the OEM
Dueler H/Ts ran at 32 psi. The Revos have lasted twice as long as the
OEM H/Ts and still have lots of tread left. LTs start off with a
thicker tread dept and slightly larger diameter than the same number
sized passenger tire.
I determine tire pressure in this manner. Drive the vehicle to warm
up the tires then set the pressure so that you can just slip a business
card about 1/8" under the tread where it meets the driveway. Check it
on all four tires, due to engine weight the front will probably take
more air pressure than the back. This will ensure maximum tread
contact with the pavement and minimum sidewall flex. Sidewall flex is
what causes tires to overheat and blow out. EX. Have you ever bent a
piece of thin metal until it breaks? If you felt it the metal got
quite warm at the flex point. This is the same thing that is happening
to all of those steel belts in your tire's sidewall if you run them
underinflated. When they get too hot, they break!

Steve Carr wrote:

The reason the manufacturer will almost always recommends lower tire
pressure is to improve the feel of the ride. For optimum gas mileage
and tread wear, you should always inflate to near the maximum that is
printed on the tires themselves.
My Tacoma sticker says something like 30-32 psi, but I have run all
four tires at 40 psi per max specified on the tires. Over 110K miles, I
have replaced the tires twice, and have plenty of life left on the
current (3rd) set. The only down side has been the rough ride, which,
in a 99 Tacoma, is pretty rough to begin with.

Luba Papageorgio wrote:

"roadhunter" <roadhunter@cox.net> wrote in message
news:Wntsh.31325$cv2.7445@newsfe13.lga...
Your tyres wearing okay? When you change em is there equal tread across the
width of the tyre?
110Ks sound excessive for two and half sets. You should be getting 50Kmin
each set no worries.

You will be underinflating your tires if you use the car manufacture's
recommendation. That recommendation ONLY applies to tires that have the
same maximum load rating (you mentioned) at 35 psi. You are corrrect in that
the load rating vs tire pressure is different than for your Bridgestone
tires. Either contact the tire manufacture or use the percent from maximum
to calculate the correct tire pressure.


"Steve Carr" <carrst@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:T2Oqh.2431$32.96@trndny09...

On Jan 15, 11:34 am, "Steve Carr" <car...@verizon.net> wrote:
The reason that the Revos are stamped 44 PSI is a recent rule change
for tire manufacturers. Generally, load carrying capacity increases
with pressure, but tire manufacturers are permitted to mark 44 PSI
inflation with the 35 PSI load. These days most tires are stamped
with the 35 PSI load and 44 PSI inflation.

If you haven't changed the tire size you should stick with the placard
tire pressure.