Boy, two completely different instructions...I like the easier one, but something has to be holding the control assembly in place, hard to believe it will just pop out. But with the face plate off I should be able to see something. Ernie, in my case because of a stiff cable (frozen heater control valve), one of the top retainer clips (holding down one of the levers on it's pivot) popped off and vanished, so I need to figure out how to fix this problem. That almost sounds like your problem...

Alrighty then, First you have to remove the drivers and passengers lower dash panels.. This should be about 4 - 5 phillips screws and 2 11mm bolts. Second removed the lower center panel by removing the two plastic push locks from behind (gently push them out). Once these pieces are removed the ash tray, there should be a screw or bolt in the back portion to remove. Gently pull the center section off, there may be a screw behind the heater/cool controls (can't remember). Good luck.

there are no real mechanics here who have learned about fixing ECUs , most of them have learned by trial and error methods.... Noon-Air wrote: hello all, -- Message posted via CarKB.com

"B A R R Y" <balsapilot@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:P3NYg.11649$TV3.6385@newssvr21.news.prodigy.com... Eh, Jeeps jumped the shark when Kaiser phased out the Willys marque in 64. <G> The 4Runner is likely to have the best ride out of the three. -- Mike Harris 1995 Tacoma 2WD 2.4L

"Boots Crofoot" <boots@dcwis.com> wrote in message news:1160867874_21407@sp6iad.superfeed.net... They're the preferred brand all over the Middle East. Other than that, I have no idea.

wishniwasfishin wrote: That sounds like the car dealer I talked to when I bought my used Honda, She tried to tell me that Michellen tires will look a little bald compared to other brands. This came after I told her the tires needed to be replaced If I were to buy the car. some $tealerships will say anything Dave

My problem with the Toyota locker, and why I just got the SR-5 with an LSD, is that the locker defaults to an open differential. For my needs, I'd rather have an LSD all the time than have to chose between locked or open. -jeff Jeff Strickland wrote:

Read on the Toyota site that VVT-i was added to increase the HP! "tiopedro" <cabopeter@gmail.com> wrote in message news:1158640027.998104.102260@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...

Karmalube.. I have a Gaylord lid fiberglass lid for sale for 250 dollars.. If your in or around the Southern cal area.. Should fit your truck.. Lid is in excellent shape.. On Oct 16, 6:25 am, "karmalube" <karmal...@shaw.ca> wrote:

Check the manual "tappett" <tappett@comcast.net> wrote in message news:QICdnVGPNoOMpa3YnZ2dnUVZ_rGdnZ2d@comcast.com... six "anomaly anomylous" <anomaly@anomylous.com> wrote in message news:b8d0j2hl1qipggstkfoogpe93hobi8cnhe@4ax.com...

On Thu, 12 Oct 2006 20:48:55 +0000, JoeSpareBedroom wrote: If the original post hadn't been so long already, I'd've mentioned that I've been trying that for some time. I guess I should have anyway. Sorry! Makes lots of sense, and I had hoped so; but it hasn't been working out that way. :-(

Hey! Very good info Wolfgang. Spoke with Tim and need to get the spare block into the machine shop to find out where i stand with part sizes. Again Thanks Bill Brown On Wed, 11 Oct 2006 19:59:36 -0400, "Wolfgang" <NOwolfXgang_dieterxSPAM@NOXcox.netNOT> wrote:

test@test.com wrote: puddle, nor the underside of the truck is wet with a light red oil, the fluid is likely still in the transmission. The transmission isn't really sealed. It has a fill plug much like your differential or a manual transmission. Fill to that level. It also has a vent so expansion from warmth doesn't blow the seals out, nor contraction in the cold suck the seals in.

On Fri, 13 Oct 2006 06:46:52 +0200, Axel Hammer <axel@dt-intra.de> wrote: Say what? You hit a button, a solenoid valve opens for the air, and inside the diff a little piston pops the lock on. The gear oil won't go anywhere... Any air leaks are just going to come out the axle vent line. Unless they're totally blown bad seals in the differential actuators will

Thanks for the perspective. I already bought a new coil and distributor housing. Hopefully it fixes my problem. Thanks for the offer but I won't be needing them. "Q" <hugemoth@access4less.net> wrote in message news:VJwWg.9270$o71.5500@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink.net...

On Wed, 11 Oct 2006 22:35:12 -0700, Jeff Olsen wrote: Ya know, Jeff, I don't believe me, either!

Sounds like the starter contacts are going. There are a lot of sites that describe the repair including: http://yotarepair.com/startercontacts.html http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/starter/ http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Starter.shtml Put a voltmeter in the lighter and watch the battery volts when it doesn't start. If the starter clicks and the voltage doesn't go way down (less than 12 volts), then the starter isn't making electrical contact. The battery voltage when the...

Thanks for the reply! I needed to get that little project moving, so I ended up just splicing the center conductor and let the outer shield float, which I regret now. I didn't do the one check which would be to see if the outer conductor's on both O2 sensors were connected (but I only had access to the one damaged wire). If they are, then I left about 2 foot of the secondary O2 sensor wire unshielded. But the truck runs fine and the 'check engine' light doesn't come on... However, I am going...

Hey! Try this guy on Ebay or direct ~ engnbldr at 503-257-7947. ZaXXoN They sell TopLine heads. On 11 Oct 2006 10:22:47 -0700, "The-Buns" <grathbun@comcast.net> wrote:

thank you ... very much appreciated "Comboverfish" <comboverfish@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:1160497165.244063.102010@e3g2000cwe.googlegroups.com...