In article <8e0004ab-c9a1-4679-86bd-13174eaea1c2@x16g2000prn.googlegroups.com>, "irafeuerstein@gmail.com" <irafeuerstein@gmail.com> wrote:

Thanks, Handyman, I'll check it out.

In article <c24ad4dqajp74bhstfon682opgurku4597@4ax.com>, Sir F. A. Rien <jaSPAMc@gbr.online.com> wrote:

On Sep 14, 5:01*pm, faust_...@hotmail.com wrote: Sounds like the battery is weak. Try jump starting it. If it cranks OK, you know the starter is good and the battery is going bad. Good luck. Al

On Sep 14, 5:06*pm, faust_...@hotmail.com wrote: The line to the slave cylinder should originate at the clutch master cylinder which should be located below the clutch fluid reservoir. There's likely a bleeder valve on the slave cylinder. Good luck. Al

"The Tundra Grade is right below SR5 vehicles, allowing Toyota to offer the trucks at a reduced price." See: http://trucks.about.com/od/2007toyotatrucks/a/tundra_grade.htm On Sep 13, 12:10*pm, John <macwiz...@neo.rr.com> wrote:

Yes, that device you're describing is the EGR modulator. I've taken it apart and cleaned that filter you were talking about - no doubt that was at least part of the problem with your vehicle. I don't think it was the problem with mine, although perhaps having the EGR valve plugged might have contributed to my problem. One thing I did was take apart (very carefully) the AFM (air flow meter) - it's an air flow measuring device just after the air cleaner. I scraped off the silicone sealing the...

That sounds like the typical exhaust upgrade? A blower (supercharger) upgrade may be more cost effective? On Sep 12, 6:34*am, PhilB <nyc308...@yahoo.com> wrote:

Paul Furman wrote: oops, 2,500 miles round trip

jOhN wrote: You must be using Thunderbird.

Optima is one of Johnson Controls brands. Mechanically a very strong battery from TV commercials. http://www.johnsoncontrols.com/publish/us/en/products/power_solutions/Battery_Technology_Centers/AGM/Spiral_Cell_.html On Sep 5, 11:55*am, Handyman <sgt...@yahoo.com> wrote:

Consider replacing the transmission fluid and differential fluid. Consider brake fluid change. May be pricey at the dealer, even if each type of fluid would only costs $5-10 for the job. On Sep 9, 12:57*pm, "Bob" <brin...@spiritone.com> wrote:

On Sep 9, 3:35*pm, Handyman <sgt...@yahoo.com> wrote: It's been a while since I've replaced struts but I believe you need to remove the castle nut that holds the outer tie rod end and seperate the tie rod end from the wheel. That permits the wheel to drop lower. If that's still not low enough, then you need to remove the nut at the end of the drive shaft and pass the drive shaft through the hub as if you were replacing the drive shaft. That will definitely get everything free of the strut. ...

On Sun, 7 Sep 2008 15:39:14 -0700 (PDT), sidneybek@yahoo.com wrote: worrying about the distributor position. As Clare remarked if the cam is off a notch you will see a huge lack of low end power. At least that is my typical cam timing goof up. If you have reviewed 22re threads one big performance enhancement is getting the EGR working again. On mine I had to remove it to clean out all the carbon from the passages. A few years later I washed the

"Dan" <dopeka@centurytel.net> wrote: 95-00 Tacoma, frame rust.

Leaves decomposing in the air inlet area? Heat core leaking? The evaporator housing is a great environment for mold to grow as moisture from the air condenses passing over cooler coils. A damp environment is all they need. Using fresh air a couple of minutes prior to stopping engine can help some but can be hard for passengers in hot weather. Lint and dirt build up in the evaporator fins also can trap moisture. Lysol/diluted-bleach would be a temporary solution. Taking off the blower motor...

Do copy down all the codes from them. Post them here because they'll help. On Aug 30, 12:20*pm, eg1...@prodigy.net wrote:

Probably the sender unit in the tank has gone bad. A 2004 doing that already? What's your warranty? You can test the gauge by disconnecting the connector to the sender and IIRC the gauge should show full or something like that. Check the Haynes manual at your local parts store for the exact procedure. An older model year can give you some suggestions as to where things are: Free repair guide, look under 2000 Tundra: http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm

On Aug 24, 7:13*pm, Jill Sage <s...@aioe.org> wrote: Hey Jill, I had a similar concern with my 1983 SR5 TOYOTA and I subscribed to ALLDATAdiy.com and it has been very useful. I am handy and like to do things myself and this subscription gives me diagnosis, repair, TBSs, recalls and labor times. I hope you find it useful - it's pretty cheap considering the information comes directly from the manufacturer.

John, Thanks for the info. Actually, I ended up taking a slightly differen approach. Since the camshaft pulleys were rotating by one tooth and als the crankshaft sprocket, which I failed to mention in my original post, rotated both pulleys and the sprocket by one tooth before installing th t-belt and the tensioner. Followed by installing the t-belt then th tensiner which rotated all of the marks by one tooth. I turned the cran four times to make share all of the marks and the dots on the...