Haynes or Chilton manuals at your local parts stores. Some even let you refer to the hard cover professional version. Or you can try www.autozone.com, for the free repair guide. However, they don't have the 2002 in the free section, but earlier, similar models should work, at least for the general idea. Autozone.com also has a paid section, AllData, that will provide things like 1 day subscription to various models. Or you can just go to Autozone, buy a sensor, borrow the socket for

On Sun, 19 Oct 2008 14:49:58 -0700, "Fuller Wrath" <boogerpicker@wazoo.net> wrote: Dear moronic asshole, Converting water into hydrogen WASTES FOSSIL FUEL: it takes more gasoline to do that than to just burn gasoline. Anyone with an adequate high school education knows that.

learn how to spell, dick breath <someone@some.domain> wrote in message news:OhSKk.71471$9s3.19323@fe07.news.easynews.com...

test

<toyotatom64@gmail.com> wrote in message news:e80133f5-d4b1-4bc2-806a-87c79cd69839@s20g2000prd.googlegroups.com... Perfect world scenario is probably 22 city/25 hwy - 4cyl manual. Diesel might be slightly better. IMO, there's really no "good/great" mileage in any truck out there. If you can get a truck that will stay in the 20mpg range and does the work you need

"TopHat" <TopHat@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:ENSdnZPwuYwfsG7VnZ2dnUVZ_oninZ2d@comcast.com...

johngdole@hotmail.com wrote: I think Toyota is especially hard hit because of owner loyalty and Toyota quality. People will replace a Toyota that's ten years old not because the ten year old car had major problems, but because they're just wanting a new car. It's easy to postpone the purchase if they feel the least bit uneasy. It's not like owning a Ford, GM, or Chrysler vehicle where after five years it starts getting increasingly expensive to keep in good repair.

On Oct 6, 3:57*am, doncee <nopsamdbc9...@nospamswbell.wanted> wrote: You don't have to remove the console box on a 90 4 runner. There are two screws holding the resistor pack into the duct down below the glove box. The resistor pack is black and is held up against the duct work right behind and under the blower. Just look for the white 4 wire wiring connector that goes to it, remove the connector and then remove the two screws that secure it. Usually you will find one or more of the...

On Sun, 5 Oct 2008 17:54:35 -0600, "Expediter" <ebuddy@shaw.ca> wrote: Viton oring and some longer bolts that lets you change out the oring without the pump falling apart. I also got a repair kit for $10 to change out all the seals if I have more problems. I suspect your pump is due for a rebuild. Parts are cheap. The time a pump repair shop charges might be a few hours labor. Well maybe more than a few hours. An idea on possible pricing.

In article <edudnfdlQeB0t3zVnZ2dnUVZ_orinZ2d@earthlink.com>, "End.of.an.Error.012009" <no.spam.please@no.spam.nowhere.com> wrote: I've used the Liquid Glass products for years (20+) and get nice results. Some Auto Zones carry the polish now - in pint cans, easy to apply etc and ~$20. It also works to remove the type stains you are referring to. If that does not work you can try their Pre Cleaner. I use it for tough water stains that have been on the car for a while. It performs like a rubbing...

Quick Guide to GPS Systems… http://gadgetreviews.co.cc/Quick_Guide_to_GPS_Systems.htm

Thanks, that looks like something worth trying. I decided it wouldn't hurt to go ahead and do the retest since the check engine light was still off on Friday. It actually passed. But when it comes back on, I'll go ahead and get it fixed, starting with the throttle body cleaning. Thanks, Trevor

No, that was another excerpt. I don't use ANY shims. Akebonos are that quiet. On Sep 29, 11:41*am, JohnB <jbri...@gmail.com> wrote:

There is a U shaped pipe with three hose connections at the drivers side rear of the engine. I think it feeds the heater core. If that's not it, then the other side of the heater core exit hose may be the problem. "Myizronu2" <izronu2@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:48e00193$0$5492$9a566e8b@news.aliant.net...

"SMS" <scharf.steven@geemail.com> wrote in message news:_scDk.1530$as4.1388@nlpi069.nbdc.sbc.com... Nonsense!! Please substantiate from a reliable scientific authority that changing oil at that frequency shortens engine life. How about in summer. Synthetic oils stand up to engine temperatures much better than non synthetics.

On Mon, 29 Sep 2008 03:48:15 -0700, SteelPig spat out the following (in article <Xns9B2826AFABD30SteelPigREMOVEhotmai@216.196.97.131>): Thanks, that's just the sort of advice I was looking for. Nice to know they grab well in the soft stuff, b/c that's the other problem in the Sonoran desert. Mostly hardpack with big ruts and sharp rocks, but crossing the washes can take me through deep swishy sand. I've been running Bridgestone Dueler A/T Revos and they've held up very well

On Fri, 26 Sep 2008 22:20:14 -0700 (PDT), johngdole@hotmail.com wrote: The light drag on the front disk brakes is 100% normal for disk brakes. They are retracted ONLY by the flex in the caliper "O" rings - a few thou. This few thou gets split between the two pads by the caliper slider hardware on single oiston calipers. ** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

2008 double cab 4x4 trd sr5 v-6 auto, fiberglass bed cover, i mainly use BP gas and only 87 oct. 40 miles a day round trip total, crusing speed 55-60 mph except for anout 10 miles of that being town driving 35-45 mph. my ave. is 19.5 per gallon. 6400 miles on truck.

In article <a55da49d-2da8-45af-840d-eba37e2f2b54@y38g2000hsy.googlegroups.com>, Hunter Hampton <airstreaminggypsy@gmail.com> wrote:

In article <64aad52b-13e3-48b1-801b-c8f7b3d6db82@n38g2000prl.googlegroups.com>, xprton54 <pfcoolguyrulz@yahoo.com> wrote: (sacasm, douce!)