guitsurf11 wrote: Just had my head gasket changed for the second time. Both times it was in the $900 range. The first time, it blew in cylinder #3. The head was heliarced and machned. The second time, about 4 years later, it blew in cylinder #2. Again, it was heliarced and machined. The mechanic told me these were the two areas that gave problems with the 22R (mine's a 1988), and I should not have any more problems.

harry wrote: Also consider Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza, the on-road quality equivalent to the excellent Bridgestone Dueler A/T Revo. These top quality Bridgestone tires are nothing like the cheap OEM Bridgestones some of our trucks had as OEM tires. Ken

Looked to me like he was down-under (au)! Matt - let me know if you do need one as I have extra I won't use - just cover postage to ya. "Cappy" <cappy_p @ juno.com> wrote in message news:3gqt97Fdrkr5U1@individual.net...

"Ken Shelton" <shelton@cablespeed.com> wrote in message news:_fCdnYoUSfNuvTrfRVn-3g@cablespeedwa.com... Did exactly that on a 2004 Tacoma purchased new last August. From Day 1 it was a full time occupation trying to keep it between the lines and not much fun to drive. The dealer pronounced it "within specs" and got huffy when I asked for a little extra positive caster. Took it to the local alignment shop, bought the tech a cup of coffee and asked for "center specs on toe-in / camber, max...

New bumper for $18. Also have shop manual. "steve podleski" <steve_podleski@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message news:9M_me.864841$w62.229277@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...

haha! not to get off topic, but the burn outs were fun, and the fun part was the fact that all those high school kids in their pimped out low riding civics decided not to rev up their engines at stop lights... I did however get some attitue from some sport mazda (cant remember their sports car name)... he tried so hard to out run me (and it was a hard fight) but he ran off with his tail tucked.. I actually thought the car would get me more looks for people/chicks... it did the opposite... I...

Just as an aside though I didn't change the belt on my v6 until 140,000 so, I think the recommendation of 60 for a belt and 120 for a chain is on the safe end of early. Dave

In article <42a64682$0$29336$afc38c87@news.optusnet.com.au>, Scotty <noricer@comeagain.com> wrote: I guess he must have thought it was too obvious to be worth mentioning - I'm expecting he'll get a good laugh out of the story. (-: -- Mark

ag Wrote: the new 4Runner will have it is another question. The way the car audio industry is moving, I can't imagine them not having iPOD compatibility. -- Ryan 25

JohnKneup wrote: done, or you're not sure, do it now. With that mileage, renew the belt idler pulleys and the water pump...same labor for access. The V-8 is an interference engine. If the belt brakes, the engine is trash. Cleaning the throttle body is not listed, but helps the truck run better. Spark plugs every 30,000 miles...$1.59 copper Denso or NGK work as

Fair & Balanced Trebor, FWIW, I had a somewhat similar problem with my 1990 4Runner V6 3.0L that I posted about here a while back. The vehicle would stall regardless of the outside air or engine temperature and then it would take 3 to 5 minutes before it would restart. It usually happened upon deceleration, such as slowing down for a light or making a turn. After many visits to various mechanics in my desperation to find "someone" who could fix it, my local Toyota dealer wound up replacing...

Engine trans and tranfer case can indeed be pulled out together, all you need is a gas axe and some imagination. Nah seriously they have to be seperated. Id seperate at the Bellhouseing for ease of engine removal. "fish45" <fish45.1q8mf5@no-mx.forums.yourdomain.com.au> wrote in message news:fish45.1q8mf5@no-mx.forums.yourdomain.com.au...

"Tom" wrote: It has been a VERY long time since I have owned a vehical with manual steering and serviced one as well. They do use regualr gear lube though. I would suggest 80w/90 or 85w140. -- Posted using the http://www.autoforumz.com interface, at author's request Articles individually checked for conformance to usenet standards Topic URL: http://www.autoforumz.com/Toyota-Servicing-Manual-Steering-Gear-Box-ftopict123349.html

"Jerry27" wrote: Never pulled a tranny in that model to say for sure but maybe some of the bolts you need to remove thread into water jacket. Better to be safe than sorry here. -- Posted using the http://www.autoforumz.com interface, at author's request Articles individually checked for conformance to usenet standards Topic URL: http://www.autoforumz.com/Toyota-Drain-radiator-ftopict122552.html

"Kryptoknight" wrote: I am not sure about that but syn oil has thinner longer chain molecues they tend to get through marginal seal better and cause them to weep/leak a bit. SYN really does its best in a very tight/close tolerance engine because of its molecular design nad a poorer choice for engines that are worn in a bit. -- Posted using the http://www.autoforumz.com interface, at author's request

"HamOp" wrote: Congratulations HamOp on your new Tacoma..... :D -- Posted using the http://www.autoforumz.com interface, at author's request Articles individually checked for conformance to usenet standards Topic URL: http://www.autoforumz.com/Toyota-Tacoma-tomorrow-ftopict121532.html Visit Topic URL to contact author (reg. req'd). Report abuse: http://www.autoforumz.com/eform.php?p=595099

kgt wrote: I don't think mine scratches lots easier than the painted beds I've owned, but maybe a little easier. I think the real deal is that the scratches won't rust, the bed won't dent, and drilling holes won't invite rust. I added a removable rubber mat to mine to help keep cargo in place. The mat can be pulled out for bulk items, like wood chips, or tossed over items likely to get airborne, like foam insulation panels. A side benefit is the floor is protected.

"Jeff" wrote: That depends on how they are rebuilt. I would go for a new or rebuilt with a warranty. You could try Auto Zone or Advanced Auto. (I have bought a few compressors from the later one with no problems) Also, if you are converting to R134a, it runs at a 10 to 20% higher pressure in service than R12 does so you really want a new or rebuilt one to start with. Make sure you replace reciever/dryer too no matter what compressor you use.

"harry" <harry_liu@lcc.com> wrote in message news:8Vvoe.65399$sy6.53623@lakeread04... The so-called map lights in my 2002 Tacoma are equally useless. They're not focused enough to be map lights, and they aren't shielded properly, so they shine in peoples' eyes. Toyota seems to have some sort of problem in terms of the reasons for the existence of their interior lights. The best map light I ever had was in a 1973 Pinto wagon. The car was a complete piece of shit, but the light was perfect.

On Sun, 05 Jun 2005 08:56:25 GMT, "Demon" <noway@forgetit.com> wrote: Ahh. If you're up north in Canuckistan ;-) that changes things, it probably came that way from the factory - the VIN will tell all. We can't get any of the good stuff like diesels or TD's down here, even though there is a large demand from people who run other diesel equipment and already have on-site fuel tanks - farmers, contractors, trucking companies, etc.