On Mon, 27 Apr 2009 11:04:49 -0400, IQRules <IQRules@nospam.com> wrote: If you want to be cautious about it. Have the oil analyzed at 5000 miles. If the results are good then bump the oil change interval up to 5000 miles for your regular oil changes. I had my own oil checked this way in both winter and once in summer since I wanted to see the results from driving during seasonal changes and to see how driving during the dustier spring and summer conditions might affect the oil.

Nice Commercial for Crutchfield, I've noticed that they have used the Internet for ADS like yours for MANY years. Scouring the web for any and all forums, Joining anonymously and adding the Crutchfield sales pitch. There ARE Far cheaper places to BUY the EXACT SAME Products and service. Buy the same stuff, same harness etc. for less money at www.bought4Less.com

X-No-Archive: yes In article <6je115dpcluqk61oasj1lonnlnr5sjbcbm@4ax.com>, Zain <zain@nowhere.com> wrote:

Nope they are bolted on. I finally got the flange off, it needs to be hit a few time with a heavy hammer, not a dead blow mallet. Once the cone washers pop out the flange falls right out. Then after that is a matter of removing the nuts and washers. Clean and repack the bearings. Unbolt the old rotor and install new one. Then everything in reverse order of disassembly. FYI: The inner bearing seal is a special order part (not a normally stocked part at any parts store even the dealer), so...

myizronu2 wrote: there. On the forward side of that fuseblock you will find the relay hanging. On my truck, water from a broken door seal traveled down and filled that relay causing corrosion and it was exceptionally tough to break loose. Mine is a 93 Toyota pickup, SR5 with a V-6 and I am going to guess yours is the same.

On Wed, 13 May 2009 20:11:35 -0700, SMS <scharf.steven@geemail.com> wrote: It only went from the center of the dash (back of cig lighter) to up over the emergency brake lever, which is where I stuck it with a bit of duct tape to the plastic molding over the brake lever to keep it in place, then routed it easily over the steering column and around some plastic down to the fuse box. Could not use ties or loom where I wanted to put it.

Sam in Savannah wrote:

Yeah, the two upstream sensors should be identical and in the order you described. The P0136 code points to the *downstream* sensor. (that's why OBD codes really help) Besides the problem with the sensor itself, there is a chance that the problem is with the wiring or even less so with the ECU. One owner (of a Camry IIRC) had the problem with an ECU, and a mechanic tried to bypass a transistor that turns on the sensor without success. That said, oxygen sensors (by whatever name) are wear...

On my 87 I just went to the bearing store and got a new bearing for maybe $10. No idea if that is an option on an 05. On Fri, 17 Apr 2009 18:45:01 -0700 (PDT), johngdole@hotmail.com wrote:

<tanszam@gmail.com> wrote in message news:cb0d508a-0294-412e-9f95-8cb7d08e3c4f@d7g2000prl.googlegroups.com... If you have the original you should be able to find a shop that can fabicate you a new one. Some years back the rear driveshaft on my International 4X4 was damaged (bent) by a large rock. A shop removed the ends, replaced the tubing and balanced it for less than a new one would have cost at a dealer. I found this place with an easy search-- Adamson Automotive & Towing

johngdole@hotmail.com wrote: BE CAREFUL. You are going to have an engine computer that matches the engine, otherwise you won't be emissions-legal and might have a computer that will damage the engine. For example the 2005 uses a drive-by wire throttle, not sure about earlier. If you do have a computer that goes with the engine you are not out of the woods yet, the computer has to match up with the rest of the electrial system as well. Personally I wouldn't try it unless I had heard from...

On Sat, 11 Apr 2009 12:46:25 -0700 (PDT), al <abuonag@msn.com> wrote: Don't know about the warranty, but the products are TOP NOTCH. BG stands for "Bearings and Gears" . Some of the best "preventative maintenance" products made.

Anyolmouse wrote: I've changed the oil in my 2001 at least twelve times and I have never removed the fender liner clips, and never thought to do so. Maybe I'll try that next time. I always do it from underneath, removing the skid plates. The choice of oil filter wrench is important. I find that the fabric strap type wrench works best (looks like

Have you sent the injectors off to a cleaning and flow checking service? I need to do it on my truck. My truck takes a little bit to start up. I would not be surprised if my injectors leak a bit as they are 21 years old. I did have good residual pressure when Iwas testing mine out. I also have a skip but my throttle position sensor reads according tothe book. My air flow sensor does not read quite they way I want but I am loath to by another unit off Ebay. The first one I got definitly improved...

Rockauto.com has them for $102.89 + shipping. You need to remove some plastic covers, but I don't know how involved they are. After that it's pretty much 2 screws/bolts and plug-and-play from the picture: http://info.rockauto.com/SMP/SMPDetail3.html?CBS1009.html If you are not mechanically inclined or don't have friends who are, then I'd take the $200 deal.

On Mar 27, 9:54*pm, "Rastamon" <ra...@dakine.com.invalid> wrote: The easiest way to get those hubs apart is by leaving the tire on the ground with the center of the wheel out so you can get at the eight cap nuts. First use a chisel to pop the center cap off and place it off to the side. Then loosen the 8 cap nuts several turns but do not remove them. Next thread two metric bolts, I think they are 10 mm, into the two threaded holes in the plate that the 8 cap nuts hold in place and tighten...

You can check the key-off current drain on the battery. Shouldn't be more than 300ma. Also check the following: http://www.team-integra.net/forum/display_topic_threads.asp?ForumID=15&TopicID=123037 On Mar 11, 6:33*am, gp <gpagmail-n...@yahoo.com> wrote:

It may be ATF but more likely low on coolant if it affects the engine like that. Besides road damage to the radiator, it's likely manufacturing or materials defect. Get it serviced under warranty. On Mar 14, 2:53*pm, "wallman" <fos-...@pacbell.net> wrote:

On Mar 12, 9:27*pm, raysdesi...@webtv.net (Ray) wrote: Ray, The starter motor consists of two basic units, one the rotor that turns the engine and the other a very powerful solenoid. You can distinguish the solenoid by a galvanized cover plate (looks like a typical Hut with a tapered roof), this is where the main battery wire is also connected through a 14 or 17 mm nut. Open this cover and a spring loaded plunger would be visible, this plunger has a copper disc. When this solenoid is energized...

In article <tm2jr4lag07kvmuepij2jcv8jgmls0vtlo@4ax.com>, thedriver@68Z28.com wrote: