Noticed that my radiator was leaking today.

How difficult is it to remove the radiator? Is it better to replace with a
new one, or fix the old radiator?

96 Camry 4 cyl
AC, PB, PS
135000 miles

Thanks for any help.

stevie, 4/26/2005, 6:44:36 PM, wrote:

It's not so hard to remove. If it is like mine then the top is plastic
and it cracks up there and leaks fluid. You really can't repair it up
in the plastic area so it is better to get a new one. Aftermarket ones
are not very expensive.

--
No matter what happens someone will find a way to take it too seriously.

Yeah, the tanks are plastic. My '93 sprung a leak last fall and I just
replaced it.

I don't know if your '96 is like my '93, but I'd pick up a Haynes
manual first [or maybe the library has one]. My cooling fan is run off
the power steering fluid -- I'd never seen that set up before, so it's
nice to review the procedure first.

thanks for the replies.

autozone is $160, oreilly $170.

I'll try to replace tomorrow.
"Hopkins" <nasibisha@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1114557867.152316.201700@z14g2000cwz.googlegr oups.com...
Yeah, the tanks are plastic. My '93 sprung a leak last fall and I just
replaced it.

I don't know if your '96 is like my '93, but I'd pick up a Haynes
manual first [or maybe the library has one]. My cooling fan is run off
the power steering fluid -- I'd never seen that set up before, so it's
nice to review the procedure first.

My 94 Camry radiator cracked on the top last year and I sucessfully
repaired the crack.
I first drained the radiator down below the top of the core.
Next, cleaned the top with MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone). I heated the top
with a heat gun. This draws out any antifreeze which may still be
present in the crack.
Use a sanding disk to remove the paint. Go only deep enough to remove
the paint.
Use a heat gun to soften the plastic. Use a piece of 1/4 steel rod
which has been rounded and is red hot. Melt the crack together.
After the crack has been melted together, roughen the area with a piece
24 grit paper or the edge of a rough grind stone. Degrease the area
one more time.
Cut a piece of reinforcing mesh sized to fit the damage area.
Mix and apply Belzona 1111 (Super Metal) to the mesh and the damaged
area.
Apply the mesh and smooth the surface.
Do not use JB Weld because it will not hold up to the heat or
antifreeze. It does not posess the properties necessary for a long
term repair.
Another method of repair is with a plastic welder.
I have not used ond but have heard it is possible.

On Tue, 26 Apr 2005 17:44:36 -0500, "stevie" <sf@dum.org> wrote:

overflow hose , two transmission lines on the bottom tank of radiator
and the two brackets on top that hold the radiator in place. Only one
bolt in each bracket. Now unplug the cooling fan wires and lift it
out. The radiator has no bottom attachment as it sits in an
indentation on rubber pads. Maybe a 30 minute job at the most.

I don't think you would have much success at repairing one , but I
could be wrong. To me , the peace of mind is worth a lot , and,
sometimes overheating can be a very serious mattter resulting in some
major damage and some big repair bills.

A new radiator at one of the discount parts houses (Advance , Auto
Zone etc) will be in the neighborhood of 160.00.
I would go the new route since this is something that can leave you up
the proverbial creek without a paddle.

Just my opinion.
Ken Day