But the kit only cost the dealer 2$

m Ransley wrote: Assuming my Haynes is correct, it says the minimum cylinder pressure is 142 psi, and standard cylinder pressure is 178 psi, for a 4-cylinder '92 to '96 Camry. Any suggestions on what I should do to resolve the 20 psi or so difference between my cylinders? Is it carbon buildup?

mrdarrett@gmail.com wrote: I called Crutchfield, and they mentioned this bypass adapter is meant to bypass (with wiring) an amplifier somewhere in the passenger side, which amplifies the signal from the factory stereo to 10 W or so. If I don't buy through Crutchfield, how would I get this adapter? Otherwise, anyone know where exactly this amplifier is located, so I can nuke it myself? ;)

learnfpga@gmail.com wrote: And don't eat, period! Most of the food is picked by... you guessed it! On the other hand, some of our fruits come from Ecuador (bananas). And I heard that garlic comes from China. (Word on the net was that Gilroy, CA is no longer the garlic capital of the world - some town in China now is.)

<onehappymadman@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:1145089173.075521.8530@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com... Mounting speakers can be frustrating because of the details you have provided. Try to make them look as good as possible even if you have to make some unwanted "mods" to the rear shelf. That is how I would approach it, given the good performamce you have got from them. Sometimes just throwing a rear mat over them is sufficient to hide any unfortunate installation compromises.

geronimo wrote: to the dealership which told us it was the fuel injectors which cost 1800.00 that did not fix it.took it to several other mechanics and they could not figure out the problem..finally find a mechanic who found the problem....it was the computer which cost about $200.00 -- Message posted via CarKB.com http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/toyota-camry/200604/1

<mrdarrett@gmail.com> wrote in message news:1145036524.717841.51430@e56g2000cwe.googlegroups.com... You're safe with soap. It won't hurt the elastomer. IIRC, Ru-Glyde, the rubber cleaner and preservative, was based on a soap formulation. Radiator hoses are made out of better materials now than they used to be. Vaseline probably wouldn't hurt them either. (That is exactly what we used to use on o-rings and elastomer seals when rebuilding automatic

markdraugelis wrote: You are describing understeer (also called "push"). Your front tires are skidding on wet roads. If you have anti-lock brakes and you apply the brakes while the front tires are slipping the ABS system should start pulsing. Go to www.tirerack.com and follow the steps to do a search for tires that fit your car. When you have a list of tires click on the "survey" to see how other drivers rated individual tires and pay special

Well I fixed it, first I took the back flasher out and reseated it but it still flashed very fast. So next I took out the front bukd, cleaned the bulb and socket contacts, and pulled out the contacts, put the bulb back in and presto, works like a champ. BTW, the front bulb acts as parking and flasher so it's a standard two contact twist in bulb, whereas the back is a flasher only and is the kind with side wires that pushed in. The front bulb was a bitch to get to. My Haynes book says the...

"tomcas" <tomcas@mjwebsitedesign.com> wrote in message news:6HY_f.3236$B52.1314@fe12.lga... I got (may be) the same the same kind of behavior when my engine is cold and idle still running fast. I can accelerate ok, run to steady speed like 70mph then if I lift my foot from accelerator, the engine RPM goes down to say 1000 then kick back in at 2000 after about 2 seconds later!!! Pier

The bearings start to dry up around 50K miles. By 90K miles the noise and wobble is quite noticeable. It's like from under the timing cover then. Worn water pump can also make a similar whirring noise. Better get them replaced. I'll pick up a Gates Timing kit, with timing belt, idler pulley, and tensioner pulley. Make sure you use a new pump and not a remanufactured one Toyota likes to sell. Change the hoses and thermostat. I use NAPA's

Good deal and good to know what it's about. But the price is mainly for the customer. Toyota pays wholesale to the dealer anyway, which is much lower than that. The extended warranty more than paid for itself in your case. Toyota did switch from gear oil to ATF for the differential, if that makes any difference I wonder, now there is no going back since the pans are shared between the tranny and the diff.

Autozone's free repair guide has a few pictures of removing the rear shelf speakers. http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/13/f1/6f/0900823d8013f16f.jsp

Use silicone grease/spray on rubber. Never use petrolium based because it drys up and make the rubber crack.

True, most of the statistical failures they show begin around 6 years or so, probably include the big American V6/V8s. For small engines like the Camry it'll last longer than that. 6-7 I'll say is about right, with every timing belt change.

Didn't want to suggest this to you at first, because it runs around $100 for their kit, but Zaino Bros. make some terrific products that ought to have the paint gleaming like new if it is not physically damaged. http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc BTW, the kit includes a clay bar.

Hachiroku wrote: It's great that you enjoy nice sound. Enjoy it now, before your hearing is destroyed. Also, you have absolutely NO right in forcing others to hear YOUR choice of music.

"Hachiroku" <Trueno@ae86.GTS> wrote in message news:o4a%f.5344$qB4.4294@trndny07... dielectric grease. Happy motoring! -- Ray O (correct punctuation to reply)

They must have changed. Used to be change after 500 miles.

Huh?? 8326922261@tmomail.net