Some consider the new Camry just a strecthed and restyled version of the older one, much like the old Avalon was a streched and bloated Camry. It's not like the new Avalon that uses a Lexus chassis. Mike wrote:

You use less power to move at 55 then is usualy used from 0-30. Just stay around 60 and vary your speed a bit, check oils and tires a few times, defects do occur.

taovan wrote: Try some Berryman B-12 Chemtool spray on the '99 IAV valve while it is stumbling at cold idle. If that doesn't clean it, you'll probably have to replace the valve. Check the manual for all the adjustments you can do with the throttle body removed: http://www.turboninjas.com/camry/ ================= I started using Tri-Flow because the problem returned even with a new

Rob wrote: The "chunks of metal" pads were "metallic" or semi-metallic. The newer pads are ceramic. The ceramic content is highly heat resistant, wears a long time, is quiet, and relatively low brake dust.

<rinthos@gmail.com> wrote in message news:1149799952.517987.175180@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com... I could be, if it was a parallel circuit to the ordinary circuit. But further detail to speculate on, I dont have, sorry. Jason

Wow, I thought I was the only one (not). I have had a 97 that did the same thing, now I have a 2000 and it's doing it too. It is most definitely a weather related issue. I have only one issue with it at all. Mine losing the foam, started a high pitched whistle on the drivers side (by the door) dash vent. The other side is not making the whistling noise. I plan on pulling just the one vent off and replacing the foam with something from Home Depot or something. Remove "YOURPANTIES" to reply

I dont actually no how bad the clearcoat is scratched up on your vehicle? there are products and polymers on the marke and some are good and some not so good i use 3M scratch & repaire specifically made for "clearcoats" does a wonderfull job on light scratche i aplly it after that i aplly a coat of maguires synthetic polymer wax and tha usually takes care of it. in your case you might wanna consider taking it to "detailing shop" and let them evaluate your damage and suggest to you what should

had simulator problem was a relay problem Steve Williams wrote:

m Ransley wrote: (or patching, etc). The pull moved from the right to the left after rotating. So it looks like I get to buy a pair of new tires. Thanks for your advice.

I was able to apply power directly to the motor and got the window up. While the door panel was off I found the wire where the short is, now I just need to figure out where on the wire the short is. There's a connector in the door pillar I'll have to get at next.

No the AC is not on and it is not in defrost mode. I removed both relays and hooked 12v to the coil side and the contacts pulled in just find.

Black flakes get caught in the coolant bypass hose and cause a high idle. It is a well documented fact. http://f5.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/ABeGROiRCyTRr12BaxiN-i9KqDUrgsuIlfGaRBnjOoDJVczlEVHRA20g2nHzhzA7yab3Ea1giNufhk2Hf9nhEHDcKZaRNuAU9uw/Black%20Flakes%20-%20High%20Idle/cleaning_out_tee.jpg m Ransley wrote:

On Sun, 04 Jun 2006 17:40:20 -0400, "bauz" <b_nospam@nospam.hotmail.com> wrote: My '92 was leaking. I went looking for Dextron II ATF. I was told at the shop that what's being sold as just plain old power steering fluid is the same thing. There are just a couple of manufacturers like Volvo that use a mineral oil based stuff. I got some that was supposed to stop leaks and lube the seals. It worked great. No more leaks.

Around here - Calgary Canada, a rebuilt or brand new aftermarket axle is pretty reasonable in cost, around 85-95.00 exchanged, complete with warranty. Ie: if anything goes wrong, you can get a replacement as opposed to if you screw something up rebuilding your old axle you're s.o.l. "geolev" <geolev@gmail.com> wrote in message news:1149449445.617185.309320@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com...

atupiye wrote: Was there some reason you replaced the computer? Unless you followed specific diagnostic procedures that identified it as faulty, I'd start by putting the orignial back in, then checking the code. For the '92 with OBD1, you just count the number of times the check engine light flashes to identify the code. Try connecting Te1 and E1 on the underhood daignostic port, then turn on the key.

ebay?? does the manual have a mfr's name or website?? <andy@withington79.demon.co.uk> wrote in message news:bufb82pfhckaf8sr36srits2u3ce53b6oa@4ax.com...

tkelmhurst-toyota@yahoo.com wrote: Search this group for "bumper cover" - revealed 47 matches

Pszemol wrote: Mine has the same thing. I needed to remove it along with a heavier "stiffener plate" right next to it, before changing the oil pan gasket. Factory manual shows this as a prelininary step. The foam is attached to a piece of sheet metal that bolts over the flywheel at the bottom of the transaxle on the engine side. My guess is that it may help quiet vibration

m Ransley wrote: Could it be the "Ignition Control Module"? Does anybody have experience with these failing? Thanks,

Update: I called the dealer where I bought the car back in Nov. 2003. The timing belt was changed in Oct 2003 at 97k miles. For some reason, when I first posted this question, I was thinking the belt replacement was on a 60,000 mile interval, and that the car was due one in the 120k mile range. Now I can start worrying about other things going wrong on my son's road trip! -Mike in Austin