what symptom does the engine exist beside high fuel consumption? On Feb 3, 12:26 pm, "Nubian" <deew...@gmail.com> wrote:

You do have some sort of used car warranty on this car do you? Ealier V6s like yours have problems with blowing head gaskets as Toyota learned how to build V6 engines. An overheated motor will ruin the head gaskets (which seal off cylinders and coolant passages) and warp the cylinder heads. That's $$$$$. A 93's transmission (Aisin A540 series) has problems with sluggish line pressure, which results in a lot of wear and tear on the clutch and brake band materials and valve bodies. Then you'll...

Dealers always overcharge in this area. Check www.crutchfield.com and see if there are any interface modules for satellite stuff for your car. They may be able to give you pointers to good local installers they work with. Jack wrote:

I think Autozone or Pep Boys have free loaners in most locations. Haynes manual will tell you which pins in the diagnostics connector to jumper to put timing into "default mode". (Don't know at the moment). m Ransley wrote:

"David In NH" <dgintz@gmail.com> wrote in message news:fKKdnUCE9d2QZ1jYnZ2dnUVZ_segnZ2d@comcast.com... Toyota doesn't rate the car, the EPA does. And the test has very specific conditions that are no longer realistic (f they ever were). It is very common for driver to get much poorer mileage than the EPA test results.

Nathan Gutman wrote: Wiper refills (Toyota) come in three pieces for each blade insert: the wiper blade itself and two metal ribs - one on each side of the blade that are installed prior to sliding the blade into the metal wiper arm. There is a release at the end of the blade that is compressed to pass by the wiper arm fingers, like any other blade insert.

If yours has the coil under the distributor cap the coil is probably shorting from condensation till its dries after 30-60 minutes. Mine was a loose cap.

Oh I thought they'll shout "Im turning Right, Eh! : )

Actually, I don't know of any insurance company that will pay for racing related claims. ;) EdV wrote:

thats absolutly right ther is tsb on the steering shaft to bee replaced there is a slight bit of pl in the area where the two pieces join

NOTE if you have been using regular fuel check your manuel it recomends a certain octain slitly higher than reg. the only reson you have been getting away with it is because the engine has an anti knock sensor on it that retards the timing when it detects preignition.a proper scan diagnosis would pic this up. in the mean time you could probably varify this the next time you fill up put the highest octain of fuel in it if it goes away then thats what it is. do you notice a sound like...

Switching to a higher wattage bulbs will draw more current to the wires, and add more heat inside the lamps that may cause premature life. It's advisable to turn of your headlights when in traffic to keep them cool. Since you only use the high beam lights on some occasion select a higher wattage bulbs that has 55/100 watt bulb instead of a 90/100. As for the higher current on the wires, adding a relay kit to avoid burning up switches and fuses.

On Thu, 01 Feb 2007 18:29:33 -0500, Loren Buhle wrote: Sorry, no answer, but: (This is not a psychotic episode. It's a cleansing moment of clarity.) Are you running this on Windows, or Linux?

The one who posted that sludge message a week ago? I don't think so. People don't need to be rear ended because a tranny went neutral when it's supposed to move, do you agree? Justa Lurker wrote:

Check Autozone's free repair guide: http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/14/07/a0/0900823d801407a0.jsp The jam may be a bad solenoid/motor that doesn't unlock, or the solenoid/motor is not getting battery voltage because of wiring/switch problems, or the latch assembly itself (like a broken plastic tab). So isolate it first.

Jason James wrote: One of the *rear* tires went nearly flat, and was thumping on the way to the tire dealer. (I had reinflated it yesterday.) We decided to gamble on the car having abused tires as well as transmission, and had them all replaced with 80K mile Hankooks (had them on a Volvo 240 and liked them). The car drove fine on the way home, but we aren't feeling much relief yet: both the car and the tires were warm from the shop, and the weather was

Just wanted to let every1 who helped me out with a reply to this that I finally took it to a qualified mechanic and it was the ignition coil in the distributer. Thank you all who helped with answers. Have a good day all. Mrs. Smith

On Sat, 27 Jan 2007 22:59:53 GMT, Hachiroku ???? <Trueno@AE86.gts> wrote: Ever hear Ed Wallace's "Wheels" car talk program Saturday mornings? He'll go off about the guvment then talk about car stats. Very interesting mix and laid back... http://www.klif.com/host-wallace.html

"Russell" <spammenot@toast.net> wrote in message news:12rt91obe0rced1@corp.supernews.com... A hole in the wall hubcap specialty shop here in Edmonton. They are made of plastic. Plastic is softer than concrete curbs. No, they are cheap looking and suck, suck suck. Wheel covers should be made out of some kind of metal.

smiths wrote: It's not uncommon to have the timing belt installed one tooth off. If the timing belt broke and caused the car to cease running, then it was not installed exactly right, that could explain your symptoms. I'm assuming 4 cylinder since you didn't say otherwise. If you're getting spark, you could check the ignition timing because the distributor runs off the camshaft so if the timing belt is mispositioned, the ignition timing will also be off. You need to use a paper clip across the...