Autozone's free online repair guide here: http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/13/e3/a4/0900823d8013e3a4/repairInfoPages.htm Haynes manual also shows how. On May 22, 8:58 am, p...@sbcglobal.net wrote:

So the power circuit to the door lock solenoids (motors) are actually OK. You need to replace the fuse to the dome and clock. See your owner's manual about this. You should have 3 spare fuses in the main engine fuse box. Did you check the battery in the remote? Does the light come on when you press it? Then you might want to check the alarm control module (under the drive side console). Because turning the engine on with the key disables the

Home Depot or Lowes do them. But if you want the Toyota symbol on there you have to go to the dealer ($$). On May 28, 6:39 pm, Berry <B...@greenfield.com> wrote:

Toyota's OEM alarm was made by Fujitsu-Ten. They have a fax back number where you can get complete manuals and installation instructions. Cool reading (actually most wiring is already in place, takes 30 min to install RS series). Google for the Fujitsu-Ten fax back number. On Mar 30, 7:26 am, Big Kahuna <n...@nothanks.com> wrote:

I believe that oxygen sensors, like spark plugs, are wear items and should be replaced 100-120K miles. Personally don't know anyone needing to replace a converter, the most common of which contain platinum coated substrates. On older cars burning oil (from leaking piston rings or valve stem seals), leaking coolant past head gasket, faulty injectors and such can contribute to converter and oxygen sensor failures. Sensors can go bad without setting MIL code and as a result damage the catalytic...

Hey man. When you say that the timing doesn't change at all, do you mean that even when the engine is loaded or revved there is no advance? If that were the case the engine would be tripping all over itself, like a stuttering mumbling **** (just watched goodfellas).

"Bruce L. Bergman" <blnospambergman@earthlink.invalid> wrote in message news:lcdj53l3ohkue5ic33rir7q0f1rnmgo74c@4ax.com... OOPS ! My bad! ;-) Even monkeys fall out of trees some times <g> -- Ray O (correct punctuation to reply)

On May 26, 10:28 pm, DrEdG...@gmail.com wrote: I have had the same problem with other cars although opening the hood and having the car die isnt one of them It sounds to me like the battery may have a shorted cell(internally ) a build up of sulphides is usualy the reason, usually caused by old age . You dont say if the battery connections are clean and you have a good

On May 26, 7:14 pm, johngd...@hotmail.com wrote: thanks for reply. 'll give it a try.

"Ken Peterson" <zebra @ optonline.net> wrote in message news:8qvh53he8r3kh87q0b40ij0a6jpjun8nut@4ax.com... Agreed. Better than hours in aggravation plus megabucks for damaged parts.

It should be drained at least to below the thermostat level. That way all the coolant in the cylinder head won't come out of the intake housing over the lower side of the engine, AC compressor, and all over the floor. You're talking about ~1 gal for a typical drain so might as well. But some coolant will come out when you take off the housing, so be prepared to catch it. Do use a Toyota thermostat and new gasket, distilled water (no minerals added) and preferred Toyota red if you can still...

On 26 May 2007 16:25:50 -0700, thatislife@hotmail.com wrote: The word is "bump", as in 'hit'. If you need a second opinion you need to physically go and get a second opinion, we can't do it by remote control - Pick another local independent transmission shop, NOT a big chain like AAMCO where they're always going to find a big problem and separate you from a large amount of your money as fast as possible.

THANKS A LOT FOR THE HELP.IT WORKED. REALLY APPRECIATE IT. THANKS ONCE AGAIN

<ivanmartinez1974@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:1180030692.299312.249160@r3g2000prh.googlegroups.com... Most likely sometime in its previous history, the car's left front wheel was subjected to a nasty hit,..either in an accident or run hard into a kurb. This brinnels, or puts tiny indentations in the wheel bearing's tracks from the balls or rollers whichever applies. Then as time goes on the damaged tracks slowly start to delaminate and general disintergrate. When they get bad, you can...

On Sat, 26 May 2007 00:27:51 +1000, Jason James wrote: Thanks! I think he's taking it to a mechanic, so I'm off the hook, but this is good to know, and gets filed for future reference!

Yep, takes away the fun in driving. Next time I'm going to buy a M/T On May 24, 11:05 am, "Steve Larson" <r...@NOSPAM.com> wrote:

I've noticed that more with Toyota lately, they are being plagued with cabin rattles as they move to more push-in non-screwed parts. My 2002 ES300 was plagued with rattles. All were fixed by the dealership however, TSBs issued on most of them. "Art" <begunaNOSPAMPLEASE@mindspring.com> wrote in message news:7ObUh.3396$3P3.2925@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink.net...

johngd...@hotmail.com wrote: If the problem is glazed shoes or drums they're easily cleaned with fine emery cloth and an even circular motion by hand on drums and shoes. I think due to the character of the Camry, brakes can glaze from repeated mild application. Occasionally, the brakes should be applied more forcefully.

search this group for IAC and see if you have the same issue.

JJ wrote: FWIW, I've found some remarkable results with this Battery Equalizer product. http://www.batterystuff.com/battery-restoration/24-volt/BE12oz.html Put it in the battery for my 1977 Toyota truck which gets driven quite infrequently, often sitting for months at a time, and so far, cranks right over. My mother's car had a problem with the battery, since she doesn't dirve much. Added some of this, problem solved. (she had a tow truck driver jump start it, but has held a charge since, and...