Hi m Ransley: After two months of intensive labor and thinking and elimination of one possible smell source after another, last weekend, I finally found the source the cat-urine smell in my Camry 2002 passenger compartment (cabin)! Guess what? It is the leaking AC chemical (i.e., refrigerant R-134a + oil). Unbelievable huh! I can't believe it myself. Before the discovery, a mechanic even gave me a chance to smell some R-134a to prove to me that the cat-urine

Thanks Comboverfish. That's good information on this problem, even for those of us who don't have it. Since tranny is considered the most sophisticated component in a car, what do you think for those of us who can disassemble/assemble engines to try to fix our own trannys? Such as replacing B2 piston, brake bands, etc. Does the RM322 provide enough information for a backyard mechanic to do a complete tear down and rebuild?

Tom Borja wrote: Yes, I'm focusing on the EGR now. EGR valve or modulator? The Haynes doesn't give a very good description on how to remove the EGR valve or modulator... the valve seems held down by a sturdy piece of metal (two nuts)... the modulator seems like it's held down by

It is no wives tale that keeping a low tank will cause condensation from the air, this contaminates gas. This was more of a problem before sealed tanks systems were introduced, but it still occurs.

podi2NOSPAM@yahoo.com wrote: snip I'm not a trans expert but from my experience it used to be if you overfilled a trans it could push fluid out the dipstick tube or if the dipstick had a very tight seal on the tube, fluid could be pushed past the o-ring where the tube fits in the trans. There were a few trans that overfilling could cause seals to blow and the seals would have to be r&r'd. I'd say your problem is solved, you had too much fluid and it escaped out

oweaponx wrote: I'll put $2 on "terminal". As in battery.

Thanks all for your replies. Eric <johngdole@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:1144013525.495867.298810@t31g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

Asia Auto Care on 12420 S. Gessner @ W.Airport. Their telephone number is 713-773-1166. I recently had my AC go out on me. The AC LED was blinking and the compressor would not start. I took it in and they checked out the car. During the check up the AC started working again. Apparently I had a bad contact on my relay that turns on the clutch. Anyway, they did not charge me for this. Mr.Can Nguyen said that because he did not "fix" the car, he was not going to charge me. I have many...

Yes, it could be the motor that operates the window, or the switch, or it could be the wiring/connector problem. All these items need to be checked, for instance, while operating the switch, do you get the proper voltage on the connector by the motor, etc. eastwardbound2...@yahoo.com wrote:

"Jason James" <Cleveland@351.factory.4v> wrote in message news:442ef0b0@news.comindico.com.au... Now if they could only make them reliable.

"badgolferman" <REMOVETHISbadgolferman@gmail.com> wrote in message news:xn0ekgwmn5l5lu7003@news.readfreenews.net... Aye,....get underneath (safely) and see if there is any sideways movement in the drive-shafts. A slight amount is OK,..but a 1/4" or more is not. If there is movement, try to discern where it is. Worn CVs can set up a "thrum-thrum" noise at that speed,..sometimes with a slight vibration..

Its under the dist cap, clean it first since replacing it means removing the distributor. You have checked and are getting no spark at the plugs.

Hi All: Update: I did dome research and found that R134a (the refrigerant) does have an ether-like odor (i.e., like sweet cat urine smell which may be mistaken for antiffeeze smell). So, my cooling system is OK (the smell persisting even with cooling system using only pure water indicates that the smell does not come from cooling system).

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Eric, glad to hear the wheels worked out okay. Do they look as good as you thought they would? Scott in Arizona

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I can explain your problem, but do not know where the problem (the leak) is. Your cooling system is low on coolant. This may cause the thermostat not being immersed in coolant. Therefore, even when the engine overheats and the coolant is hot in the engine, the thermostat is cool and refuses to open. You can check this condition by touching the lower radiator hose and find that it is cool even when the car overheats. Madison18

Try spraying Tri-Flow into the IAC air intake (rectangular opening - bottom of throttle body, right in frint), with the engine stumbling at cold idle. After I replaced the valve, problem returned, but this solved it. My theory is that there is no lubrication for this valve to rotate - every time engine goes from cold to warm - and it can stick. When I took out the old valve, just out of curiosity I pulled it apart, and there were some wear marks on the surface of the cylinder that moves to...

"RicknKnox" <ricklm@charter.net> wrote in message news:1a28b1e8c535ea9970aa05f722db3792@localhost.talkaboutautos.com... This is witthout the parkbrake? If so get to the dealer. If not so, its the parkbrake slipping,..apply harder. Jason

mrdarrett@gmail.com wrote: Sometimes I had to, uh, take matters in hand EIGHT times a time, back then. There was one babe, in Grade 9, man, I had to go home a lunch to, uh, get some privacy....... Ah, yes, Mary S., was her name...boy oh boy to have her in the back seat of a Camry.. THAT would give those shocks a good workout.