I don't know about your Camry but most cars have 2 sets of fuses. Small ones are in the car and explained in the owners manual. Larger ones are in a box under the hood and their labels are in the top cover of the box. "swampfox60" <kf4jum1@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:549174516c91c53da7efcf9619144c8a@localhost.talkaboutautos.com...

I hear you!

Thanks for that info, I'll go through the motions you outlined. The car has 248,678 thousand miles on it.

It IS the ignition coil it is dirty from oil leaking past the O ring in the distributor and that shorts it out from condensation ,also be sure cap it real tight, or it is bad, try cleaning it with alcohol and a rag first, it is under the distributor cap.

On Tue, 07 Mar 2006 10:58:06 -0500, "Galneedsanswers" <notpublic@yahoo.com> wrote: I had a similar problem but with a Ford Escort. It'd stall when I slowed down and depressed the clutch. Turned out it was the EGR valve. Hope that's of some help. Fotofreak

online salvage yards like TAP recycling

"davemac" <davemac2@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:1141681281.750254.94600@i39g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... Opinion only: In my w/shop manual they say to remove the rack to allow the rack end to be held firmly in a soft-jawed vice, so the inner "ball-housing" or inner tie-rod can be unscrewed from the rack after a lock-washer is tapped straight,...so it looks do-able while in situ as long as you dont apply too

onehappymadman@yahoo.com wrote: Yes, I had the long stick of wood also - but what if I had to open the hood out on the road one day? When it got to the point that the hood began falling the instant it was raised I replaced the hood struts. Tremendous difference. Let go of the hood and it springs up into position near the end of travel.

This happened to me and expoxy worked for a while, treating it gingerly. Finally broke down and bought the repl part. 30 min later was fixed.

I figured if there really was a problem, it would come back on after I reset it. I am a poor college student and want to find a cheaper solution. Autozone will not do airbag work. Thanks, Alex

Being a global medium, this is not the best place to post an ad. How far are people going to travel to see this car? For example, it could not be driven in California without expensive modifications to meet smog requirements. Not likely the guy from Australia will be interested, nor the fellow in England. You need to find people in Vancouver.

the Dexrons are compatible, and the same. They have just come up with newer improved versions hence the I,II, and III

There is a guy on ebay who sells Honda accessories much cheaper than my dealer. Or check with your dealer. His stuff is original equipment. I've bought a couple of items from him on ebay. "Jim" <jimmcd@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:Ui3Of.5659$972.284383@news20.bellglobal.com...

Agreed. It's all Michelin for me.

The bearing gets slammed by the upper spring seat and the mount from both sides as the rubber looses its integrity. When you add up all the parts, the Monroe Quick-Strut with all new components sound like a real good deal. I haven't take a test ride for a long while now to know the current generation of valving. But some love today's Sensatrac ride. A strut is a structural component. So it's not like a noisy speaker and it bounds to be a safety problem when the structure is compromised I

This is the "factory red" coolant I assume. The new factory "pink" is pre-mixed and should not have any more water added. Neither are "yellow", gold, or green.

No, KYBs (jokingly called: "Keep Your Bilsteins" in the car enthusiasts circle) are low-end struts with simple valving. They have better AGX struts that are adjustable. But not much to be proud of. Bilsteins struts are available as aftermarket replacements for Camrys. Toyota can't afford to put Bilsteins on at the factory, but Mercedes, BMW, and Audi do. These are made by ThyssenKrupp Bilstein, a world reknowned suspension parts maker: see www.bilstein.com 96 struts should be soft by now as...

I would not go with Bosch on that engine for the reason I mentioned about the waste-spark system. But if you are willing to change at a more frequent interval, which is fine for a 4-cyl engine, piece of cake. Then go with NGK G-Power BKR6EGP with the thinner platinum center electrode. Toss them every 15K miles for $2.85 a piece (froogle.com price). The BKR6EGP plug, by the way, is an approved application by NGK catalog for the engine.

no it isn't the switch or anything else. It's quite common with Toyotas. Classic sign of a bad BLOWER MOTOR RESISTOR. Costs at the most $50.00 and is quite easy to install. It's on the side of the blower motor which is under the passanger side dash. Two screws it's out and plug in and fasten those screws

davidj92 wrote: Glad you like the article. I found it after a friend said I should have gone to edmunds.com instead of kbb.com to get my used car estimates. As they say, hindsight is 20-20. I was wondering why the used car salesman took 2 hours to process my paperwork. The article explains it. I just thought my salesman was very inefficient. I used the time to chat on my cellphone, and to use