On a 95 Celica, we failed emissions. Idle or low speed was ok. The
problem came in to play for hi speed CO of 10% and hi speed HC of 220
both at 2500 rpm. The limit for hi speed co should be below 1.2% and
hi speed HC should be waay below 220.

I have a general knowledge of cars. What would I look at or replace
to help pass this smog test.

Thanks Much In advance,
Haney

TheMotos1@gmail.com wrote:
Don't start blindly replacing parts when you fail a smog check. Take it
to a garage that specializes in smog checks, and pay for some diagnostic
work to find out the real problem. You'll save money, and avoid making
the problem worse. It should be something very simple on a Toyota of
that vintage, maybe a disconnected or broken hose, or a stuck EGR valve.

My brother-in-law owns a repair shop in San Francisco that does a lot of
smog checks. He had someone bring in a Ford Escort that failed by a
small amount. He offered to repair it for $60 (this was 8-10 years ago).
The owner declined, saying he would fix it himself then bring it back
for a free re-test (the policy was "Pass or Retest Free)." The owner
brought it back for the re-test, and the car failed again, but this time
as a "gross-polluter." The owner then said he'd pay the $60, but it was
too late. The vehicle was automatically dubbed a gross polluter in the
DMV computer, and had to be fixed by a certified repair shop, and then
retested at a test-only smog check facility (every year, rather than
every two years).

Finding a reputable shop with expertise in smog control equipment on
Toyota's is the challenge, so you don't end up spending a lot on the
diagnostics. Where are you located?

If you do try fixing it yourself, when you go for a retest, first pay
for a pre-test to ensure that the problem is fixed prior to being hooked
in to the DMV computer (or whatever it is called in your state).

I am in Las Vegas, NV. I would like to fix it myself. We had the car
fixed last year in order for it to pass smog and it cost upwards of
$400. I am going to a place that will re test for free. Today, I've
already changed the air filter oil and oil filters. will go in for a
retest and then change spark plugs next if we still don't pass.
Oxygen sensors cost $170 from Toyota. There is no check engine light
so I imagine that they are functional for now. I'm trying to make
sense of the abnormally high CO and HC.

Thanks again guys.

HanDoGG wrote:
It could be running too rich for a variety of reasons (O2 sensor, IACV),
it could be a bad catalytic converter (for the HC anyway). High CO is
caused by too much fuel too little air (also running too rich). However
there could be many causes of running too rich. Could be an EGR problem.

Good luck. I get the feeling that you're going to spend more money
changing parts that don't need changing than you would having it
diagnosed professionally. The problem is that there is no home mechanic
Emissions Analyzer. Also, I think you probably get only one retest free,
after that you start paying for the next test/retest.

On Thu, 10 Jul 2008 17:46:55 -0700, SMS <scharf.steven@geemail.com>
wrote:


How many miles on this car. High Mileage may mean that the CAT is
failing. This could be the reason that the high rpm test is failing.
The catalyst is worn out or gone.

Fred

SMS is right. Rich mixture is one area you should look at first. Too
much fuel and too little air. Start with the easy items, like vacuum
leaks and IAC valve, and then look into things like timing, valve
clearances, spark plugs, oxygen sensor, misfiring cylinder etc etc



On Jul 10, 1:15*pm, TheMot...@gmail.com wrote:

Here's the latest. I've changed the spark plugs oil and oil filter..
and the air filter. Now when I changed the air filter, It seemed as
if the old one were damaged and had been letting in a great deal of
dirt. This goes back to a previous post that there is not enough
air. What would I check next going on this. Could something be
clogged?

Thanks@@

Vacuum ports have tiny passages and may be plugged. It's hard to tell
unless you take each hose off and clean the passages and blow
compressed air through the hoses. Time consuming I must say but should
tell you the state of the vacuum control system.

Now, debris is more harmful to the engine in terms of excessive wear.
I wonder about the condition of the rings and cylinder/piston etc.



On Jul 16, 11:34*am, HanDoGG <TheMot...@gmail.com> wrote:

I bribed the smog guy. For $110 plus the $29 smog fee... I passed..
NICE!!!!

I had a Chevy PU that wouldn't pass unless I stood on the hose they put into
the tailpipe......I would chat with the mechanic to keep him occupied so he
didn't notice what I was doing.........



"HanDoGG" <TheMotos1@gmail.com> wrote in message
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