On Jul 13, 12:55*pm, "Anthony Diodati" <mrbreezeet1NO
S...@verizon.net> wrote:
How old is the oil

On Jul 13, 2:38*pm, "Anthony Diodati" <mrbreezeet1NO S...@verizon.net>
wrote:
I once had that issue, even though my oil was only 6000 miles old I
had the pan dropped and a new filter put in, it worked fine, any
debris can cause a malfunction.

We are working on a 94 Camry, and it will start out in high. No power off
the line.
In other words it is not automatically shifting back down to low gear,but
staying up in high.
If you shift manually ,it is OK.
Is there a solenoid or anything that controls the shift?
Or is it like the old time GM transmissions, IIRC it was a stuck governor?
Thanks Tony

"ransley" <Mark_Ransley@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:5b175831-4812-408f-9454-b13f5a2d0dfa@m36g2000hse.googlegroups.com...
On Jul 13, 12:55 pm, "Anthony Diodati" <mrbreezeet1NO
S...@verizon.net> wrote:
How old is the oil
Good point.
I have not had a chance to look at the car at all yet, my buddy did drive
it, but not sure if he checked the oil condition or the level yet.
We will probably have the car on Tuesday.
Thanks, Tony

That should be an Aisin A-140E series transmission. It's
electronically controlled with shift solenoids. No modulator no
governor. It's actually better than the U-series they make later.

Besides fluid and strainer change you should start by checking the
state of the shift solenoids. First use a voltmeter to check the right
ones are activated. Sounds like the wrong combination of them are
stuck.

If the solenoids are not stuck then the apply devices or clutch pack/
brake band should be suspect.





On Jul 13, 10:55*am, "Anthony Diodati" <mrbreezeet1NO
S...@verizon.net> wrote:

<johngdole@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:4b5a7598-8687-4a6e-8306-48c6f3848207@2g2000hsn.googlegroups.com...
That should be an Aisin A-140E series transmission. It's
electronically controlled with shift solenoids. No modulator no
governor. It's actually better than the U-series they make later.

Besides fluid and strainer change you should start by checking the
state of the shift solenoids. First use a voltmeter to check the right
ones are activated. Sounds like the wrong combination of them are
stuck.

If the solenoids are not stuck then the apply devices or clutch pack/
brake band should be suspect.
Don't have a manual for this car, any links by chance to do this with??
Thanjs Tony





On Jul 13, 10:55 am, "Anthony Diodati" <mrbreezeet1NO
S...@verizon.net> wrote:

<johngdole@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:4b5a7598-8687-4a6e-8306-48c6f3848207@2g2000hsn.googlegroups.com...
That should be an Aisin A-140E series transmission. It's
electronically controlled with shift solenoids. No modulator no
governor. It's actually better than the U-series they make later.

Besides fluid and strainer change you should start by checking the
state of the shift solenoids. First use a voltmeter to check the right
ones are activated. Sounds like the wrong combination of them are
stuck.

If the solenoids are not stuck then the apply devices or clutch pack/
brake band should be suspect.
Don't have a manual for this car, any links by chance to do this with??
Thanks Tony





On Jul 13, 10:55 am, "Anthony Diodati" <mrbreezeet1NO
S...@verizon.net> wrote:

"Anthony Diodati" <mrbreezeet1NO SPAM@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:g5egeh$opd$2@aioe.org...
Can any one tell me how to pull the trouble codes from this car.
94 Toyota Camry. The check ending light is on.
My buddy says he can only scan the 96 and up on the Toyota's.
Auto zone told me the same thing, 96 and up only.
I'm thinking we might have a VSS or some other sensor adding to the problem.
Thanks, Tony

"Anthony Diodati" <mrbreezeet1NO SPAM@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:g5gla1$3bh$1@aioe.org...

I did find this page,
Not sure, don't have the car yet, but I think it's the 4 cyls that are OBD I
and the 6 cylinders that are the OBD II and need a scan tool.
Called the other Auto Zone, and He said some 94's are OBD II but if it is,
he can scan it.
http://www.troublecodes.net/Toyota/

"> I did find this page,
I guess there is no way to get the codes out of this thing.
Auto Zone could not do it either.
Turn's out it IS a 6 cylinder motor, so jumping out the connector
(http://www.troublecodes.net/Toyota/ )
would not work either.
Do you think the Toyota Dealer is the only one who will be able to get the
codes or to scan it?
Thanks, Tony

I don't see anything on Autozone's free online repair guide. However,
an educational website with Toyota sponsored info you can also take a
look at the "technical articles" on http://www.autoshop101.com/

This inlcudes the transmission solenoid operation, On/Off combinations
etc. http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h16.pdf
See pages 11 and 15.


If solenoids #1 is ON and #2 goes from ON to OFF, in D, while shifted
from 2nd into 1st gear then you're OK. Then you should suspect that
lack of ATF changes caused debris to stick shift valve 1-2. In which
case you may have to clean the valve body and all the valves. Kinda
major for a backyard mechanic and you need a valve body gasket set
plus a ATF strainer/pan gasket set ($20 Fram ATF kit works well).
That's not to say clutch packs and brake bands and their apply devices
do have problems.

That's why 15-30K mile strainer/ATF change is so important in these
dirty transmissions.




On Jul 15, 6:53*pm, "Anthony Diodati" <mrbreezeet1NO S...@verizon.net>
wrote:

Ok Thanks for the links, and your reply.
Because the check engine light is on, We thought maybe we had a VSS or TPS
problem.
Will a shift solenoid only problem also turn on the check engine light.
Tony
<johngdole@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:718be97f-99ec-4e68-b3a7-6bce946b4c01@r66g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
I don't see anything on Autozone's free online repair guide. However,
an educational website with Toyota sponsored info you can also take a
look at the "technical articles" on http://www.autoshop101.com/

This inlcudes the transmission solenoid operation, On/Off combinations
etc. http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h16.pdf
See pages 11 and 15.


If solenoids #1 is ON and #2 goes from ON to OFF, in D, while shifted
from 2nd into 1st gear then you're OK. Then you should suspect that
lack of ATF changes caused debris to stick shift valve 1-2. In which
case you may have to clean the valve body and all the valves. Kinda
major for a backyard mechanic and you need a valve body gasket set
plus a ATF strainer/pan gasket set ($20 Fram ATF kit works well).
That's not to say clutch packs and brake bands and their apply devices
do have problems.

That's why 15-30K mile strainer/ATF change is so important in these
dirty transmissions.




On Jul 15, 6:53 pm, "Anthony Diodati" <mrbreezeet1NO S...@verizon.net>
wrote:

Actually I would suspect more of a Shift Solenoid #1/#2 problem than
TPS/VSS for the MIL light, if there are no sticking in the valve
bodies. Earlier A540 series transmissions suffer from low line
pressure rise related problems and therefore excessive wear. I
wouldn't be surprised if this was wear particle related, as Toyota/
Aisin took the cheap way out in not installing a decent filter.

So what's maintenance like on this tranny? Fluid changes? New
strainer?

According to the free repair guide on Autozone, the 1MZFE started
using OBD-II in 1994, and the 4 cyls (5SFE) later in 1996. Maybe that
engine is produced just right before the OBD-II start date? I don't
know. You can check on Autozone's free repair guide on how to read
the codes off non OBD-II systems. Probably won't hurt to give it a try
(don't know if it's the same procedure as others posted). If this
works it'll save you some money.

It's under "Driveability & Emissions"->"Read Codes"
http://www.autozone.com/shopping/rep...00c152800744cb

OBD-II readers should have given you the generic codes unless Toyota
locked them out as proprietary codes.


On Jul 16, 10:59*am, "Anthony Diodati" <mrbreezeet1NO
S...@verizon.net> wrote:

<johngdole@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:01e779fd-16ac-4a77-8396-9f11139d9f99@j33g2000pri.googlegroups.com...
Actually I would suspect more of a Shift Solenoid #1/#2 problem than
TPS/VSS for the MIL light, if there are no sticking in the valve
bodies. Earlier A540 series transmissions suffer from low line
pressure rise related problems and therefore excessive wear. I
wouldn't be surprised if this was wear particle related, as Toyota/
Aisin took the cheap way out in not installing a decent filter.

So what's maintenance like on this tranny? Fluid changes? New
strainer?

According to the free repair guide on Autozone, the 1MZFE started
using OBD-II in 1994, and the 4 cyls (5SFE) later in 1996. Maybe that
engine is produced just right before the OBD-II start date? I don't
know. You can check on Autozone's free repair guide on how to read
the codes off non OBD-II systems. Probably won't hurt to give it a try
(don't know if it's the same procedure as others posted). If this
works it'll save you some money.

It's under "Driveability & Emissions"->"Read Codes"
http://www.autozone.com/shopping/rep...00c152800744cb

OBD-II readers should have given you the generic codes unless Toyota
locked them out as proprietary codes.

Hey Thanks for all your help.
You sound like a Toyota Tech??
No we tried jumping terminals TE1 and E1 , under the hood, but the light
would not flash.
I even read in one of the Toyota PDF manuals you sent the link to, about
jumping terminals TE1 and E1 , and watching the O/D light off light, But no
go either.
I read on one of the sites, where the 94 6 cylinder Camry was a "early OBD
II"
But like I said, My buddies E-Z link scanner would not hook up to it, nor
Auto- Zones Scanner.
I talked to the Service Writer at the Toyota dealer, and he said something
like $80.00 just to scan it, but he even said they might have to jump it out
and read the codes manually.
Unless I'm missing something here, like I mentioned, I couldn't get the
codes out by jumping the TE1 and E1 terminals.
He said "you Probably have a stuck Shift Solenoid like you said, and
suggested flushing the transmission , so the owner of the car agreed to
*try* this.
We are secluded Wednesday to have this done.
As far as the service history, I have no Idea, These folks work at the
Chinese Restaurant, and I have to go through one of the owners as an
interrupter, as he is a little hard to talk to. But I also think the owner
is like the 3rd. owner.

So again thanks for all your help thus far,
Tony

1. Manually shift into L. Now does the transmission go into 1st gear?
If the valve body isn't sticking then you should be able to do so.
Then we can probably say that hard parts are fine and the problem is
with the solenoids.


2. Usually the first thing to do when a transmission is acting up is
to change the strainer/pan gasket/fluid. Clean the pan. Don't
introduce lint into the system in the process. Pay attention to the
proper refill level.

Again, $20 Fram ATF kit with cork rubber pan gasket works well for me.
GM Dexron III ATF supersedes Dexron II. I guess no choice here.

Fluid exchange machines exchanges 95% of the fluid but doesn't clean
the pan for you, so that's kinda useless given the cost. (I don't
think there are reverse "power flush" machines any more. These stir up
debris and jam the valve bodies.)


3. Yes, some OBD-II implementations are NOT fully compliant. I hope
this is not the source of your problems in reading them with a OBD-II
scanner (EZ-Scan, Autozone) but sounds like it may be.

If you open up the hood and look for a sticker, you should see one
that says "OBD" or "OBD-II". That will tell you for sure which
diagnostics standard that particular car uses. We are curious too. :)


4. Well, if the owner pays $80 then Toyota should be able to give a
diagnosis instead just a few codes I hope.

Good luck!




On Jul 18, 11:43*am, "Anthony Diodati" <mrbreezeet1NO
S...@verizon.net> wrote:

Wow I'm not sure what to do now??
Thanks for all your help though. I have learned some things.
I'll let you know If I come up with anything.
Tony
<johngdole@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:4eabbd5c-605c-4513-9677-98c60099ebd8@i20g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
1. Manually shift into L. Now does the transmission go into 1st gear?
If the valve body isn't sticking then you should be able to do so.
Then we can probably say that hard parts are fine and the problem is
with the solenoids.


2. Usually the first thing to do when a transmission is acting up is
to change the strainer/pan gasket/fluid. Clean the pan. Don't
introduce lint into the system in the process. Pay attention to the
proper refill level.

Again, $20 Fram ATF kit with cork rubber pan gasket works well for me.
GM Dexron III ATF supersedes Dexron II. I guess no choice here.

Fluid exchange machines exchanges 95% of the fluid but doesn't clean
the pan for you, so that's kinda useless given the cost. (I don't
think there are reverse "power flush" machines any more. These stir up
debris and jam the valve bodies.)


3. Yes, some OBD-II implementations are NOT fully compliant. I hope
this is not the source of your problems in reading them with a OBD-II
scanner (EZ-Scan, Autozone) but sounds like it may be.

If you open up the hood and look for a sticker, you should see one
that says "OBD" or "OBD-II". That will tell you for sure which
diagnostics standard that particular car uses. We are curious too. :)


4. Well, if the owner pays $80 then Toyota should be able to give a
diagnosis instead just a few codes I hope.

Good luck!

Wow I'm not sure what to do now??
Thanks for all your help though. I have learned some things.
I'll let you know If I come up with anything.
Tony
<johngdole@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:4eabbd5c-605c-4513-9677-98c60099ebd8@i20g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
1. Manually shift into L. Now does the transmission go into 1st gear?
If the valve body isn't sticking then you should be able to do so.
Then we can probably say that hard parts are fine and the problem is
with the solenoids.


2. Usually the first thing to do when a transmission is acting up is
to change the strainer/pan gasket/fluid. Clean the pan. Don't
introduce lint into the system in the process. Pay attention to the
proper refill level.

Again, $20 Fram ATF kit with cork rubber pan gasket works well for me.
GM Dexron III ATF supersedes Dexron II. I guess no choice here.

Fluid exchange machines exchanges 95% of the fluid but doesn't clean
the pan for you, so that's kinda useless given the cost. (I don't
think there are reverse "power flush" machines any more. These stir up
debris and jam the valve bodies.)


3. Yes, some OBD-II implementations are NOT fully compliant. I hope
this is not the source of your problems in reading them with a OBD-II
scanner (EZ-Scan, Autozone) but sounds like it may be.

If you open up the hood and look for a sticker, you should see one
that says "OBD" or "OBD-II". That will tell you for sure which
diagnostics standard that particular car uses. We are curious too. :)


4. Well, if the owner pays $80 then Toyota should be able to give a
diagnosis instead just a few codes I hope.

Good luck!

"Anthony Diodati" <mrbreezeet1NO SPAM@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:g60mqi$ske$2@aioe.org...
Garage owner and his mechanic worked on it for about 1/2 hour.
Told me his machine would not allow them to flush it, and his machine used
the transmission pump to pump the fluid through.
He suspects a bad front pump on our car. I said OK ,makes sense and left.
Driving back though, I thought if the pump was bad, the car would not run as
good as it does in manual low.
Do you still think it would pay to change the filter and fluid?
Tony

Well, ATF and strainer change is usually the first thing you do when a
transmission starts to act up. However, if the problem is with the
valve bodies, then it will depend on how bad things are sticking
(that's why it helps with regular ATF/strainer change). If the problem
is with bad shift solenoids, then obviously replacing them is the only
option. Then you can decide if you just want to go straight to
solenids and valve body.

Cleaning the valve body or changing the solenoids are not difficult
tasks for the mechanically inclined. But will cost if you go to a
mechanic.

Ok, while the primary suspects are the solenoids or a stuck valve in
the valve body, let's try:

1. What's the condition of the transmission fluid?
Red, brown, black? Smell burnt? Wear particles in fluid?

2. Shift into L. Does the transmission go into 1st or even 2nd gear?

3. The Check Engine codes really should be read. Post them here.



On Jul 23, 9:38*pm, "Anthony Diodati" <mrbreezeet1NO S...@verizon.net>
wrote:

<johngdole@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:4739b1e9-c8b3-4ac7-b9d2-54afa5167dcf@u6g2000prc.googlegroups.com...
Well, ATF and strainer change is usually the first thing you do when a
transmission starts to act up. However, if the problem is with the
valve bodies, then it will depend on how bad things are sticking
(that's why it helps with regular ATF/strainer change). If the problem
is with bad shift solenoids, then obviously replacing them is the only
option. Then you can decide if you just want to go straight to
solenids and valve body.

Cleaning the valve body or changing the solenoids are not difficult
tasks for the mechanically inclined. But will cost if you go to a
mechanic.

Ok, while the primary suspects are the solenoids or a stuck valve in
the valve body, let's try:

1. What's the condition of the transmission fluid?
Red, brown, black? Smell burnt? Wear particles in fluid?

2. Shift into L. Does the transmission go into 1st or even 2nd gear?

3. The Check Engine codes really should be read. Post them here.



I cant pull them No matter what I do.
I did try jumping the connector under the hood, think it was E1 and TE1
according to what I found on line, but nothing would flash.
Thanks, Tony