Cupped tires will create a worrisome sound that does sound like a bad bearing. This perhaps used to be more of a problem with the lightly loaded tires in the rear ends of import cars some years ago. My guess is that it's less of a problem these days with cars being so heavy and all. Back then, the technicians could offer no solution for this except to keep the tires inflated properly, rotate often and maybe change the shocks in the rear. My guess is that the road conditions you drive on has...

The new iridium spark plugs with platinum ground pads can last 100-120K miles (90K miles or less in city driving). But I wouldn't mind inspecting them at 60K miles. The NGK IXs at 50K miles there are still very little wear. Good stuff, use them **as long as specified as applicable in the NGK catalog**: http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/products/spark_plugs/laser_iridium.asp?mode=nml

Look at the the following write-up: http://autorepair.about.com/library/weekly/aa092504b.htm Basically there are two "dowel pins", for the lack of a better term, on the handle/lock-lever assembly (one points up and the other down) that lock into the bezel about where the red arrow points. You basically use a screwdriver to carefully "pry" the bezel away (up/ down) slightly from the handle/lock-lever area and gently pull the

SMS wrote: You mean like my wife's 1993 Chrysler had? When a gauge went out of range, the chime "binged" and a "check gauges" light illuminated. Don't ALL cars have that now?

It used to be that a coarse strainer was used at the pump pick up point, and there were no filtration at all in the tank. But the large in-tank filter should provide at least 10 micron of filtration like the wimpy little 15K mile filter up front. The larger size means this filter should be good 100K miles. Given that design life, for those new owners who trade in their cars every 4 years, it would be truely a "lifetime" filter.

Mine went bad on my '92 and after doing some research I found that the problem is commonly the wiring harness where it goes between the body and the trunk lid. It bends there each time the trunk is opened. That's where it was on mine. If you get a wireing diagram that tells which wire it is use a sharp probe with a voltmeter to see if there's juice on the body side but not on the trunk side. If that's the case splice in a new piece. On Tue, 5 May 2009 05:21:08 -0700 (PDT), cpliu...

John - How do I open the throttle plate to clean it? I cant run my engine while the air cleaner is dis-assembled? Can I poke it with a screw driver to open the throttle? That's a good picture of the PVC, exactly where is this located? sorry for this I really dont know where it is. Here's a follow up on my brakes I bought my 2 ton jack stands, C-Clamp, brake aerosol cleaner, sil glyde at Autozone first thing in the morning. I went home and did my first brake job.

On May 5, 9:18*pm, johngd...@hotmail.com wrote: Took it to my local repair shop, $269 for front pipe (which includes catalytic converter) and labor. KOST Tire and Muffler is a rip off. They wanted $619 for that part alone. Stay away from chain store repair shops. Which I'm sure a lot of you already knew.

anthonyzadeh@gmail.com wrote: You apparently don't realize that there are salvage yards that ship parts just like the new parts websites do. There are others that are networked, and will send parts via truck to your local salvage yard, if they are part of the network. Your being in Canada is another issue, though: I don't know how strict cross-border auto parts restrictions are. In your case it might be cheaper to have it repaired with fiberglass-reinforced filler, or with new steel.

Look at Popular Mechanic's article on plastic bumper repair. I think you may need only steps 1-3. http://www.popularmechanics.com/how_to_central/automotive/2763656.html On May 2, 7:42*pm, jake.pinneb...@gmail.com wrote:

Leftie wrote: On our '96 the horns were way too wimpy, so installed the air horns.

On Apr 28, 9:39*am, sh <sham...@prupipe.com> wrote: and there are no scratches on it from the machine, is disk re write able, is it finalised. Is it unreadable on other machines.

On Apr 27, 5:23*am, "santosh.yadav...@gmail.com" <santosh.yadav...@gmail.com> wrote: BS oil cooled, Oil lubed, its air or water cooled dumb spamasser

On Apr 21, 8:12*am, "Jack" <jh...@insightbb.com> wrote: If you live where Calcium Chloride is put on roads because it gets real cold check brake and fuel lines, mine rusted through at about 12 years.

"Clay" <c.story@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:52afaa9f-a42b-4dad-88f4-a1c59d00e3d8@l16g2000pra.googlegroups.com... Yet another reason why I seldom buy on the net---the FUCKING bullshit gouging shipping and handling costs.

johngdole@hotmail.com wrote: Yeah, me too. Maybe it won't happen again...

johngdole@hotmail.com wrote: Thanks for the response. I agree that NAPA tends to be better than the other chains, although they aren't wholly without crap either. I'll order the B-A parts.

Funny...but very close to the truth. Ed "Comments4u" <comments4u@nospam.mindspring.com.invalid> wrote in message news:1pv5a36gyyz3u.1tk0bqg663x38$.dlg@40tude.net...

Chassis parts should be referenced using the chassis code. The difference would be more like US or Japan made. For example SXV10, MCV31, etc etc. A quick look on EBay suggests one hood fits all (for that generation). ~$181 + ground shipping. Aftermarket, of course, of less desirable quality as far as safety goes, IMHO. On Apr 23, 4:40*pm, "Pszemol" <Psze...@PolBox.com> wrote: