I think the ECU stores the driving practices and then uses that to calculate how to change the gears. For example when the cold weather comes, my honda goes crazy. Starts changing too early, or too late, but once I reset the ECU, and accelerate smoother and slower, it stores that and then it drives great. On the last ECU reset though, it fixed the incorrect gear-change timing, but now it pauses on gear changes. Also, something that is probably nothing to do with power/tranny is that sometimes...

What kind of damage did it do to the engine? My '99 Prelude needed the auto tensioner replaced at about 64,000 miles (timing belt was making a knocking sound). TSB 01-010 Jan 16, 2001 described the noise as "flapping" and applied to '98-'00. I wish Honda had used a mechanical tensioner for the TB like earlier years. The SOB dealer/zone rep where I've had three Preludes (84, 90, 99) serviced over the last 20 years wouldn't cut any "good will" slack with this known out-of-warranty problem.

w_tom <w_tom1@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:<4031788D.BC0CBFA0@hotmail.com>... Thanks for all the help. The car has 185,000 miles on it. There was no pressure in the lines with the old master cylinder and bleeding did not help. It turns out one of my caliper mounts was siezed from any movement so that wasn't helping. After cleaning up that mess I went through the bleeding process again. I am able to get the pressure up and the brakes work great, but I still have a problem if I open the

"Pailyn" <fluffydaddym3@yahoooo.com> wrote in message news:<62fYb.201808$U%5.1093278@attbi_s03>... Thanks for the post. I did buy it. Sunday. Have been driving it for the past 3 days. The SRT is amazing. And the Dodge Flame red is one of the best looknig colors out there, especially for this car. The only bitch was I immediately had to order all seasons, Continetnal ExtremeContacts wounted on Mille Miglia Avia's. $900 from the tire rack - but I will have the tremendous G-force T/A's...

Actually on this on car it was to the right of the steering wheel. But the tip work non the less the lights are working as per usual again. Much Thanks ~~~~~ Carl "N.E.Ohio Bob" <rgstroud@neo.rr.com> wrote in message news:40321601.86B5B6DF@neo.rr.com...

"E. Meyer" <e.meyer0SPAM@ieee.org> wrote in message news:<BC50ED6A.48D03%e.meyer0SPAM@ieee.org>... Some of the new base oils are "Type II" or "Type III" - AKA "hydroisomerized" or "hydrocracked" petroleum oil. There's been some controversy over Castrol NA changing their motor oil from mostly PAO (Type IV) to a Type III base oil, and marketing it as "synthetic". <http://www.oilhelp.com/about.htm> Texaco Havoline motor oil was labelled as "Type II" during the Shell/Texaco

jmdavisjr@hotmail.com (John Davis) wrote in message news:<f970483f.0402160918.65c6f7f2@posting.google.com>... there's also 2 other known things. go to the dealer and have them look up service bulletin numbers 01-054 and 03-039 hope this helps. Chip

George Macdonald wrote: I was at the parts dept of an Acura dealer last weekend to pick up a ground wire. They had a special on several of the filters, including the Filtech (15400-P0H-305) for $4.99 each. However - the shrink wrap on each filter was compromised, and they must have been kept in a moist environment. There was mild rust on the baseplate of each filter. It probably wasn't that big a deal. The Denso filters for the Legend were $10 each.

Bought a set already, thanks for your reply. Tom "cbloomis" <cbloomis@aol.com> wrote in message news:7162f0b247ae76f7986223c42df69c43@localhost.talkaboutautos.com... you're still looking.

Thanks! I am glad to have a Honda engine in my car. Have a look at what I found in old discussion groups (having searched for "honda concerto rover engine" in Google...

"Rex B" <NOSPAMrex@REMOVEtxol.net> wrote in message news:4030f0fb.8639019@news.txol.net... Found bubbled paint at the firewall, just a minor leak, just enough to inhale a little air to bugger things up. A new dealer master ($108CDN) and all is well.

It could be in many place. Start with radiator, move to hoses, and last check engine parts. Refill it, put something on the bottom of the car, and try to note the location it's dripping from. It won't take too long to notice if it's going out that fast. If it's a hose, it's an easy fix. Tape the hose somehow until you get to the shop to get a new replacement hose. If it's a radiator and it needs replacement, might cost you anywhere from $150 to $300, depending on where you purchase it. Might...

Thanks for the advice. I am not going to take this option. R "Matthew Brown" <sliceoflifephoto@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message news:_7hXb.33248$fV5.692143@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...

Yeah I agree; I think it is a powertrain warranty. I had to have a cable replaced because my temp control froze on a '90 Integra. That was at 6 or 7 years old and it cost something like $100. Probably not something you want to do yourself because you may screw up the dash's appearance by trying to disassemble it.... JM

exactly, most drivers aren't professional, even though they think they are, and the fact your not expecting it will have a large effect on the amount of time (ms) it takes you to realize you have to pump, not slam the brakes "CaptainKrunch" <nothing@nobody.com> wrote in message news:e7mdncC4woiJdrLdRVn-hg@comcast.com...

our local news station did a hidden camera investigation on 'convenience lube' places, juffy lube included, and caught the staff at several chains deliberately 'creating' problems for customers that their cars in fact didn't need at all. the camera crew recorded the mechanics doing things like keeping bogus containers of fluids -long gone bad- in the back of the shop, and surreptitiously dipping the ATF dipstick in that instead of the customer's actual car engine, and coming out to show...

"T. Nelson" <tnelson@nospam.com> wrote in message news:tnelson-1502041716140001@pm5-broad-125.snlo.dialup.fix.net... in my daewoo, dirty gas has never been an issue. theres a few shells and texacos that have the best gas in town located right next to me. im gonna add some fresher gas later and see if itll kick on. if not, ive got a new fuel filter im about to throw in there tomorrow, or next weekend. either way, thats where im gonna start. everything else is a little dirty, but looks to b e in...

jim wrote: Actually, depending on the type of starter, Honda sells just the copper starter contacts in a kit for about $18 (or at least that's what they used to sell for several years ago. Eric

T. Nelson wrote: || In your case--it appears to be || the fuel pump and/or related relays. You first step might be to || replace or repair the relays and if that does not solve the || problem--replace the fuel pump. OK, it took the main relay out. What an inconvenient place to get to! Good thing I have slim and flexible hands, otherwise I'd have to have taken off the dash :/

Go to http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/catdisplay.jsp , put in your car's info, then click on "breather pipe-oil filter." A not-too-bad drawing will appear. The PCV valve appears on it. "PMS" <pms65@sbcglobal.net> wrote