peter wrote: buy a rover 620si , same car but much cheaper marcel

On Sun, 28 Sep 2003 18:18:11 -0700, billbjohnson555@nospamhotmail.com (Bill B. Johnson) wrote: I think you're probably referring to the CRV which is mechanically almost identical to the Element The passport is a re-badged Isuzu Rodeo (truck type chassis). PUT YOUR CHECKBOOK DOWN AND BACK FAR AWAY FROM THE PASSPORT!!! I think for alot of long distance driving the Element had shorter

In article <knNib.125148$Of2.3895507@twister.tampabay.rr.com>, "Bob" <bwing@cfl.rr.com> wrote: I advise you to take it to a service station and ask them to let you watch them do it. Take notes. If they refuse to let you watch--tell them you will take it to another service station. That is usually all it takes for them to agree to let you watch. If you have any friends that can do it--watch them and learn. That's how doctors learn to do surgeries.

In article <3f8b93c7$0$16182$2c56edd9@news.cablerocket.com>, "Ken Muzio" <muzio@usamedia.tv> wrote: Go to any larger auto parts store and buy a code reader. Make sure the directions say that it will work on your car. Shop several stores to get the best deal. The more expensive ones allow you to turn off the engine check light.

In article <T6Hib.67826$AH4.40901@lakeread06>, "amsjsj" <amsjsj@cox.net> wrote: Here are some sites that might be able to help you. If they don't have what you need--email them and ask where you can buy what you need. I doubt if there is much of a demand for such a thing. honda.autowebaccessories.com honda-accessories.com hparts.com

In article <vokf2kslhr8ufa@corp.supernews.com>, "Dee Ell Arr" <dlr@all_i_need> wrote: It could be lots of things. The best thing to do is take it back to the mechanic that replaced the wheel bearing to check his work and to see if he can find anything else that could be the source of the noise. Some mechanics place the car on a lift and elevate it slighly. Before they elevate the car--someone gets behind the steering wheel. After the car is started and the front wheels start spinning--it's...

1,900 "Joe" <jnevarez@adelphia.net> wrote in message news:ZKMib.13414$YO5.6051630@news3.news.adelphia.net...

That's very big of you :) <quick check> oops, I misread it, I thought it was you that Elmo replied to, heh. -- Lordy

i'll sell you my 96 civic EX it's already a 5 speed i8urv8 at hotmail.com Red 5 wrote:

The cv did require a seperator tool (ebay ball joint seperator). It cost me about 50 bucks. Other than that I removed the axles myself. In my case I had a neighbor that actually replaced the rubber boot and repacked them, in 15 minutes. At times it seemed like a big job, but actually just requires patience. I did learn a few tricks I guess. If they are broken the grease factor is huge, buy some gloves or surgical gloves. I decided to start doing some of this work myself because of forgotten...

Thank you so much! Just what I needed. -- Darrell "Randolph" <bhovden@pacbell.net> wrote in message news:3F8ADE50.F26F0958@pacbell.net...

In article <6pBib.5241$zw4.2984@nwrdny01.gnilink.net>, "Cory Dunkle" <cadnews@verizon.net> wrote: I had an '84 with the dual carbs. Yes, that's how it comes from the factory. Though in '86 ('87?) they added an Si model that had fuel injection and 10 extra horses (as well as power windows and a few other goodies). If in original running order, expect about 30-32 mpg. Less if all city driving.

what's too low? Joe Nevarez wrote:

Thanks, I was almost about to do this, but I chickened out... I bought a "Honda" part and paid them to remove and press in the new one, thinking they had a press and special tools.... While I was waiting, I heard what sounded like lots of banging with a big, heavy hammer coming from a corner of the shop where I couldn't see. I bought the Honda part because I have not liked the aftermarket ball joints I've gotten for my Subaru. The rubber boots didn't fit over the

sry i mean a 2001 honda civic "Rolando Ras" <mdrolando@home.nl> wrote in message news:bmetd8$2hk$1@news1.tilbu1.nb.home.nl...

Frank van Hoof wrote: The nut is welded to the body. It's not going anywhere. The prior recommendation to take it to a frame shop is a good one. However, most alignment shops can install a shim to bring the toe back into spec. Eric

Bob wrote: When the valves hit the pistons they bend. They leave slight indentations in the tops of the pistons. The pistons are otherwise not damaged in most circumstances. Eric

A very common noise maker, after repairs such as you did, is a bent dust shield on the brakes. It is very thin metal and bends quite easily. Check and see if it is rubbing on the tire, axle, or some moving part with the wheel hard over. Fix - usually can be bent out of the way by hand. Dave D -- Hunt hard...Kill quick...Offer No Apologies! "Ivan Demkovitch" <idemkovitch@nospam.hotmail.com> wrote in message

vze33sg4@mail.verizon.net wrote: --------------------- I saw a white one the other day in Edmonton, Alberta, and was it SHARP ! ! I didn't get the year, but I'll bet it was the last model built. Really nice rounded corners. Almost looked as hot as my wife's white '95 Odyssey. Just obey the owner's manual and everything's cool.

In article <Raeib.8344$dn6.3415@newsread4.news.pas.earthlink.net>, "Redwood" <mhollandsprint@earthlink.net> wrote: Which means? One of my co-workers bought a Toyota six months ago. It had thirteen miles on it when he picked it up. Two days ago it was towed to the shop because it broke the timing belt. I know, he shoulda bought a Honda instead, but even timing belts on those are supposed to last longer than six months.